Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Michael Fischer 2010
Page Views: 343 total · 22/month
Shared By: Spencer Perry on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

Start up a somewhat loose notch that is capped by a small roof. You can clip the first bolt from right under the roof on decent holds (awkward). Pull out around the roof and establish on the face and clip the second bolt. Pull the crux on small holds with good feet while clipping the third bolt (much easier if the draw is pre-hung and a little long). From a good stance climb the steep wall following the crack/weakness. Once at the roof, traverse right and up a short dihedral, clipping a bolt around the corner on your left (use a long sling), and then traverse back left onto the face using good holds. Easy climbing to the anchors.

On Rakkup this was listed as an 11a, but I thought the crux was a substantial step up from that and more like 11c. The rest of the route is steep and continuous 5.10 climbing on decent rock. Three star route for the area.

Location

The obvious dirty notch/chimney capped by a small roof about 40 ft. left of Internal Dialogue. It is the bolt line just left of Block Magic.

Protection

I think it was 8 bolts with a rusty glue in anchor (best to rap off). The first bolt is somewhat awkward to clip, so a stick clip might be helpful.

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Nathan Sick
  5.11d
Nathan Sick  
  5.11d
Going straight up from bolt one to the first stance at bolt three feels like solid 11d to me. It's a tough, fun, bouldery sequence, and it feels like the natural / intended line. A lot of people traverse out right to get around this, which is probably where the 11a originally came from. Nov 10, 2017