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Routes in Reeds Creek

A Roll of the Dice S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Angelfire S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Apophis S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Banzai T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Big Show, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bridge Burner S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Buckaroo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Catfish Strangler S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chinese Arithmetic S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Disorientation 101 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dr Taco S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grapevine Massacre S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gypsies S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Harlem S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Horse With No Name S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Hunter's Moon S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
I Ain't So Sure Hank Did It This Way T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Internal Dialogue S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
LIttle Khumbu S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
La Machina S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Little Purple Flowers S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Napoleon complex 5.11D S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Not a Gimmie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
One page at a time S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rain S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reaching Conclusions S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sea of Tranquility S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Second Rule S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shaolin Mantis S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Shaved Scamper S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Shorty Longback S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Skywalker S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Still Laughing S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stop the Presses S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Super Natural T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Superman S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Superwoman S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thieves in the Temple S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Welcome to Reed's Creek S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Winter Harvest S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Michael Fischer 2010
Page Views: 315 total · 24/month
Shared By: Spencer Perry on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Description

Start up a somewhat loose notch that is capped by a small roof. You can clip the first bolt from right under the roof on decent holds (awkward). Pull out around the roof and establish on the face and clip the second bolt. Pull the crux on small holds with good feet while clipping the third bolt (much easier if the draw is pre-hung and a little long). From a good stance climb the steep wall following the crack/weakness. Once at the roof, traverse right and up a short dihedral, clipping a bolt around the corner on your left (use a long sling), and then traverse back left onto the face using good holds. Easy climbing to the anchors.

On Rakkup this was listed as an 11a, but I thought the crux was a substantial step up from that and more like 11c. The rest of the route is steep and continuous 5.10 climbing on decent rock. Three star route for the area.

Location

The obvious dirty notch/chimney capped by a small roof about 40 ft. left of Internal Dialogue. It is the bolt line just left of Block Magic.

Protection

I think it was 8 bolts with a rusty glue in anchor (best to rap off). The first bolt is somewhat awkward to clip, so a stick clip might be helpful.

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Nathan Sick
  5.11d
Nathan Sick  
  5.11d
Going straight up from bolt one to the first stance at bolt three feels like solid 11d to me. It's a tough, fun, bouldery sequence, and it feels like the natural / intended line. A lot of people traverse out right to get around this, which is probably where the 11a originally came from. Nov 10, 2017

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