Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Mike Farnsworth
Page Views: 976 total · 20/month
Shared By: Mike Farnsworth on Feb 24, 2015
Admins: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Description

Look for the chain draw in the center of the low 15' horizontal roof. Start in the cave, climb past a bolt low on the face, being mindful of potentially loose rock before the business. Climb past four bolts in the roof (yup, they're close together, as I didn't want anyone decking) to finish up 50' of 5.8 on Winterharvest.

Note: the start of the route climbs left onto the large pedestal allowing a large reach to a sneaky jug , which allows for the very approachable grade of 5.12b (or possibly 12c). There is a direct start -- absolutely an eliminate -- that I've been toying around on just for fun, which avoids the large jug referenced above. This will probably bump the grade into the 13 range for those wanting something else to do. The direct start pulls into a matched crimp undercut, then moves to a small sidepull near the chain draw to set up for a wild throw, or possibly tensiony move, to the horseshoe jug.

Protection

Bolts to 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

In the thecrag.com/climbing/united… the same route is identified as Grapevine Massacre 5.11c (First Free Ascent: Ryan Eubank, 2009 ) May 27, 2015
Mike Farnsworth
  5.12
Mike Farnsworth  
  5.12
Thanks for pointing this out. The description on The Crag is definitely wrong: I put in the first five bolts on Harlem, so I can say that definitively!

Grapevine is nearby: if memory serves, it is to the climber's left of Harlem by appx. 200'. The first or second bolt of GVM has a painted chain with an oval biner. It's also a fantastic route! Harlem is dead horizontal; Grapevine is steep and tiered, but more gradual. May 29, 2015