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Harlem

5.12b, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 3.2 from 13 votes
FA: Mike Farnsworth
W Virginia > Eastern WV > Reeds Creek

Description

Look for the chain draw in the center of the low 15' horizontal roof. Start in the cave, climb past a bolt low on the face, being mindful of potentially loose rock before the business. Climb past four bolts in the roof (yup, they're close together, as I didn't want anyone decking) to finish up 50' of 5.8 on Winterharvest.

Note: the start of the route climbs left onto the large pedestal allowing a large reach to a sneaky jug , which allows for the very approachable grade of 5.12b (or possibly 12c). There is a direct start -- absolutely an eliminate -- that I've been toying around on just for fun, which avoids the large jug referenced above. This will probably bump the grade into the 13 range for those wanting something else to do. The direct start pulls into a matched crimp undercut, then moves to a small sidepull near the chain draw to set up for a wild throw, or possibly tensiony move, to the horseshoe jug.

Protection

Bolts to 2-bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Harlem
[Hide Photo] Harlem
Harlem
[Hide Photo] Harlem
Crappy photo, but may help you find route. Chain faintly visible in middle of roof.
[Hide Photo] Crappy photo, but may help you find route. Chain faintly visible in middle of roof.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] In the thecrag.com/climbing/united… the same route is identified as Grapevine Massacre 5.11c (First Free Ascent: Ryan Eubank, 2009 ) May 27, 2015
Mike Farnsworth
Fayetteville, WV
  5.12
[Hide Comment] Thanks for pointing this out. The description on The Crag is definitely wrong: I put in the first five bolts on Harlem, so I can say that definitively!

Grapevine is nearby: if memory serves, it is to the climber's left of Harlem by appx. 200'. The first or second bolt of GVM has a painted chain with an oval biner. It's also a fantastic route! Harlem is dead horizontal; Grapevine is steep and tiered, but more gradual. May 29, 2015
[Hide Comment] Mike is wrong about the relative location in the comment above. Harlem (12c in rakkup guide) is about 40 feet to the right of Grapevine Massacre cave. You can see it from grapevine, just about. Nov 1, 2020
Eugenel Espiritu
Pennsylvania
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] Fun boulder problem, one hard move that I would put in V5 range so this would make the route harder than 12a in my book. It is, however, only one or two moves in 12 range and then 5.8 for the rest. Nov 10, 2020
[Hide Comment] Agree with Eugenel. Still working on this route, but as a solid 5.11/shaky 5.12 climber, there is no way the Rakkup guide's grade of 12c/d is correct. Any idea where that rakkup grade comes from? Nov 23, 2020
Mike Gray
Smoke Hole Canyon
[Hide Comment] The rakkup guide grade came from Mike Farnsworth, at a time when the holds were not all clearly chalked and perfectly clean, and as with most grades, is for an on-sight ascent, not the 50th attempt. Apr 9, 2021
Nick Leiby
Alexandria, VA
[Hide Comment] Mike Gray, consensus grades changing over time with more opinions or with routes cleaning up is no big deal- happens all the time. That said, saying that a grade "as with most grades, is for an on-sight ascent, not the 50th attempt" is kind of bogus for a single pitch sport route. This isn't an alpine trad objective where that kind of grading might make sense. Routes are graded for the redpoint difficulty, not the onsight. Similarly, no one is yo-yo projecting this route. Apr 17, 2021
Mike Farnsworth
Fayetteville, WV
  5.12
[Hide Comment] I'm happy to hear everyone is enjoying this route. Easier beta definitely evolved after my ascent. It's the nature of the game! Feet first at the end is also a pretty entertaining method, but probably won't make or break your send. Train that right arm bicep curl and have fun! Apr 27, 2021
John Nguyen
SLC, UT
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] Safe and great bolting Mike! Definitely hop on this route if you're a boulderer, its maybe a V4-5ish crux on generous jugs into cruisey 5.8 climbing. I think its possibly easier to campus the entire thing, will come back to try that another time.

My beta: youtu.be/aHPv4ZL_lEA May 3, 2021
[Hide Comment] Haha, John, it is definitely not easier to campus. We get it, you're strong. Dec 9, 2021