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Harlem
5.12b,
Sport, 70 ft (21 m),
Avg: 3.2 from 13
votes
FA: Mike Farnsworth
W Virginia
> Eastern WV
> Reeds Creek
Description
Look for the chain draw in the center of the low 15' horizontal roof. Start in the cave, climb past a bolt low on the face, being mindful of potentially loose rock before the business. Climb past four bolts in the roof (yup, they're close together, as I didn't want anyone decking) to finish up 50' of 5.8 on Winterharvest.
Note: the start of the route climbs left onto the large pedestal allowing a large reach to a sneaky jug , which allows for the very approachable grade of 5.12b (or possibly 12c). There is a direct start -- absolutely an eliminate -- that I've been toying around on just for fun, which avoids the large jug referenced above. This will probably bump the grade into the 13 range for those wanting something else to do. The direct start pulls into a matched crimp undercut, then moves to a small sidepull near the chain draw to set up for a wild throw, or possibly tensiony move, to the horseshoe jug.
Protection
Bolts to 2-bolt anchor.
[Hide Photo] Crappy photo, but may help you find route. Chain faintly visible in middle of roof.
Fayetteville, WV
Grapevine is nearby: if memory serves, it is to the climber's left of Harlem by appx. 200'. The first or second bolt of GVM has a painted chain with an oval biner. It's also a fantastic route! Harlem is dead horizontal; Grapevine is steep and tiered, but more gradual. May 29, 2015
Pennsylvania
Smoke Hole Canyon
Alexandria, VA
Fayetteville, WV
SLC, UT
My beta: youtu.be/aHPv4ZL_lEA May 3, 2021