Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | Ben Wyse, 2022 |
Page Views: | 681 total · 23/month |
Shared By: | Ben Wyse on Jul 4, 2022 |
Admins: | Shawn Heath, Aaron Parlier |
Description
Start on Jungle Gym to access the big ledge. Once on the ledge, clip the first bolt on Jungle Gym with a 24" long runner. Move left across the ledge and climb up to the first bolt on Pitons and Tetons, clip this with a long 24" runner. Traverse left to access the first bolt that belongs exclusively to Solitude, clip it with a 12" runner. Follow the line of bolts up through a lower crux bulge to a rest stance in the corner below the roof. Clip the final bolt before the roof with another alpine draw to facilitate smooth rope flow. The left foot leg jam that Martha employs in the photo works for short or tall folks. It makes the route easier than with the strategy I use in the video. Video of the Dirty Hooker/Solitude linkup. youtube.com/watch?v=PPzLSFH…
Protection
This really good route is NOT a straight line. Ideally you bring 6 "alpine draws" (shoulder length or 24" runners, whatever you want to call them) a 12" draw and 3 normal sport style short quickdraws. Clip the first 4 bolts and the fixed pin with alpine draws, the 5th bolt (first one on Solitude proper) with the 12" draw. Short draws on the next two and another alpine draw at the last bolt before the roof. With a short quickdraw in the roof you have very close protection while pulling the crux move. This will alleviate rope drag problems that will certainly plague you if you try to use a rack full of short sport quickdraws. The wild roof at the top is a real treat for a relatively moderate climb. Bolts/chains/carabiners for the top anchor.
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