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Roofied Piano Man
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British PG13
Avg: 4 from 2
votes
Routes in (4) Hidden Roofs
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Coyote T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cracked T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dangle Berries TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Dirty Hooker T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Five Lined Skink T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Flower Sermon, The T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Friend from Kansas T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Friends Of Richmond TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gone to Texas S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Grinch, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Jigsaw Puzzle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Jungle Gym S,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Jungle Gym "monkey bar variation" S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Loch Ness Monster S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Missouri S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Moonwalk S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Necrophagia S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Penis Peril S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pitons and Tetons S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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QUEST S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ring-necked Snake S,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Risky Business S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Risky Business Direct Finish S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Roach Motel S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Roofied Piano Man T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Solitude S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tendonitis **Variation TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Urohidrosis S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Vicious Rodents T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wild Turkey S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 45 ft (14 m) |
| FA: | Seth Keiser, April 8, 2023 |
| Page Views: | 258 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Seth Keiser on Apr 9, 2023 · Updates |
| Admins: | Shawn Heath, Aaron Parlier |
Description
Climb up to the underside of the roof. Transverse right using the roof crack ledge and mostly foot smears. Reach out and around lip of roof to a solid right hand crimp on the face of the wall, adjust feet to high smear and large right foot flag to be able to reach up with left hand to a nice four finger crimp. Match right hand with right foot heal hook. Piano match right hand to the left hand (there are other worse holds you could try to use to not piano match). Bump up left hand up. From here you bring your left foot up, either now (as I did in the FA) or keeping bumping hands up until you have a more solid hold for your hands, then bring the left foot up. The rest of the route is perfectly straight up the slab face using small holds, slab technique, and balance until you top out at the anchor bolts.
*careful of the top rope swing at the start. If you fall before reaching the underside of the roof, there is a high chance you'll hit the ground*
Beta Video : youtu.be/o447EjP7Y4U
Location
The next biggest roof at the far left end of the wall has three smaller "roofs" on its right side. The route starts just to the left of the three "roofs" directly underneath the big roof. Pictures attached. To the left of Coyote start. Start with two high hands and feet on the various ledges underneath.
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