Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: Ben Wyse late 2020
Page Views: 373 total · 19/month
Shared By: Ben Wyse on Apr 30, 2023 · Updates
Admins: Shawn Heath, Aaron Parlier

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Starts on top of a pile of huge boulders just to the right of the Flower Sermon roof.  A few moves off the boulders will establish you at a stance below a large roof.  Skirt the big roof on the right and climb straight up to a huge ledge. Step left across the "diving board" (there is a bolt above your head installed on the underside of the roof) to a stance below a short corner leading to the upper off-width.  The "diving board" is stable!  I jumped up and down on the end of it and it doesn't move, but it sure looks scary.  Climb steep moves up to and through the off-width.  Enjoy the exposure between your legs on the final stemming moves. Please leave the two hexes in the upper crack.  They are meant to be fixed pro.  

Beta Video : youtu.be/H0Hy5MLJS9Q

Location Suggest change

First route to the right of Flower Sermon.  

Protection Suggest change

6 bolts protect the bottom of the route.  I installed two fixed Hexes in the upper crack so the route can be climbed with 8 quick draws.  A 200 pound climber peeled out of the upper crack taking a good whipper onto the bottom hex, so it is nicely seated in the crack!  If you want to supplement the fixed gear with your own, bring #1-4 Camalots and rack them on the right side of your harness.  Fixe ring anchors at the top equipped with steel 'biners.  These can easily be accessed to set up a TR.  Note, the sun NEVER hits the cord/webbing on the hexes so it should be good for the next 10 years, but as always you should inspect the soft goods and use your own judgement.  The lower hex equipped with both standard cord and supplemental webbing for redundancy.      

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