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Pitons and Tetons
5.11a/b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.7 from 7
votes
Routes in (4) Hidden Roofs
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Coyote T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cracked T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dangle Berries S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dirty Hooker S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Five Lined Skink T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Flower Sermon, The T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Friend from Kansas T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Friends Of Richmond TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gone to Texas S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Grinch, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Howling Coyote S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Howling Piano Man S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Jigsaw Puzzle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Jungle Gym S,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Jungle Gym "monkey bar variation" S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Loch Ness Monster S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Missouri S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Moonwalk S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Necrophagia S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Penis Peril S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pitons and Tetons S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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QUEST S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ring-necked Snake S,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Risky Business S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Risky Business Direct Finish S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Roach Motel S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Roofied Piano Man T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Solitude S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tendonitis **Variation S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Urohidrosis S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Vicious Rodents T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wild Turkey S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 38.46364, -79.11138 |
| FA: | Ben Wyse August 2022 |
| Page Views: | 421 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Wyse on Oct 17, 2022 · Updates |
| Admins: | Shawn Heath, Aaron Parlier |
Description
This route climbs the steep wall between Jungle Gym and Solitude. Access the big ledge via the opening section of Jungle Gym. From the ledge, 5 bolts protect the gently overhanging climbing up to the anchor below the roof. There is a large horizontal crack after the 4th bolt. If you can bury your right leg in the crack, it will earn you a no-hands and makes it super casual to clip the 5th bolt. Once rested, climb straight up the crimpy orange face to good jugs at the anchor. Check out the photo J. Feher took documenting the "No Hands Rest." The "X" marked horns are off route if you are climbing the intended line. If you are stumped by the upper section you can bail right into much easier terrain and bring the grade down to 5.10.
Direct Finish Variation: Clip the anchor (better with a medium or long draw) and hand traverse right until you see a bolt above your head. Pull through the roof above the bolt to anchor. While the roof is only 5.8 (initially led to the top with no pro above the anchor) it is exciting and fun.
Video Beta : youtu.be/bAiY05P3LV4
Location
Access the big ledge via the initial section of Jungle Gym. From the big ledge, this climbs the middle bolt line to an anchor below the roof. Solitude is to your left. Jungle Gym is to your right.
Protection
Use alpine draws on the opening section of Jungle Gym (bring 3 if you want to clip the piton). 5 quick-draws will get you from the ledge to the anchor under the roof. In the fall of '24 a bolt was added to this anchor, but if you peer into the crack, you will see an old Teton (these predated Hexes) that was part of the initial anchor. The giant steel locker is rated to 40KN. In an email exchange with Ryan of HowNot2 it was deemed, "Super Good Enough!"
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