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Pitons and Tetons
5.11a/b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.5 from 4
votes
Routes in (4) Hidden Roofs
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Coyote T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cracked T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dangle Berries TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Dirty Hooker T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Five Lined Skink T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Flower Sermon, The T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Friend from Kansas T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Friends Of Richmond TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gone to Texas S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Grinch, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Jigsaw Puzzle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Jungle Gym S,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Jungle Gym "monkey bar variation" S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Loch Ness Monster S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Missouri S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Moonwalk S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Necrophagia S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Penis Peril S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pitons and Tetons S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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QUEST S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ring-necked Snake S,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Risky Business S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Risky Business Direct Finish S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Roach Motel S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Roofied Piano Man T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Solitude S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tendonitis **Variation TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Urohidrosis S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Vicious Rodents T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wild Turkey S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Ben Wyse August 2022 |
| Page Views: | 314 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Wyse on Oct 17, 2022 |
| Admins: | Shawn Heath, Aaron Parlier |
Description
This route climbs the steep wall between Jungle Gym and Solitude. Access the big ledge via the opening section of Jungle Gym. From the ledge, 5 bolts protect the gently overhanging climbing up to the anchor below the roof. There is a large horizontal crack after the 4th bolt. If you can bury your right leg in the crack, it will earn you a no-hands and makes it super casual to clip the 5th bolt. Once rested, climb straight up the crimpy orange face to good jugs at the anchor. It is easy to head right, which brings the overall grade down to mid 5.10. Read the comments in the "no-hands rest" photo for details. This is sort of like a gym route where there are holds that are "off".
Location
Access the big ledge via the initial section of Jungle Gym. From the big ledge, this climbs the middle bolt line to an anchor below the roof. Solitude is to your left. Jungle Gym is to your right.
Protection
Use alpine draws on the opening section of Jungle Gym (bring 3 if you want to clip the piton). 5 quick-draws will get you from the ledge to the anchor under the roof. In the fall of '24 a bolt was added to this anchor, but if you peer into the crack, you will see an old Teton (these predated Hexes) that was part of the initial anchor. The giant steel locker is rated to 40KN. In an email exchange with Ryan of HowNot2 it was deemed, "Super Good Enough!"
NOTE: There is a fun 5.8 move through the right side of the upper roof which was initially led without the bolt (exciting!!). Clip the anchor with a draw to extend it a bit and traverse slightly right looking up for another bolt above your head. Haul jugs to another anchor at the summit.
9 draws total if you climb the entire route and clip all the bolts and the piton.
1 Comment