Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Routes in (4) Hidden Roofs
|
Coyote T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Cracked T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Dangle Berries TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
|
|
Dirty Hooker T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Five Lined Skink T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
|
|
Flower Sermon, The T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
|
|
Friend from Kansas T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
|
|
Friends Of Richmond TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Gone to Texas S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Grinch, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Jigsaw Puzzle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Jungle Gym S,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Jungle Gym "monkey bar variation" S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Loch Ness Monster S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
|
|
Missouri S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Moonwalk S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Necrophagia S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Penis Peril S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Pitons and Tetons S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
QUEST S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Ring-necked Snake S,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Risky Business S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Risky Business Direct Finish S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Roach Motel S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Roofied Piano Man T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
|
|
Solitude S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Tendonitis **Variation TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
|
|
Urohidrosis S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Vicious Rodents T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Wild Turkey S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Ben Wyse, (The Keiser brothers were the first climbers to TR the cool traverse in the middle of this route.) |
| Page Views: | 323 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Wyse on May 10, 2023 · Updates |
| Admins: | Shawn Heath, Aaron Parlier |
Description
This climb "pieces" together rock from multiple routes. It is a fun climb, but has serious rope drag potential. See notes below under "Protection". Starts by climbing Coyote. If you place pro before the 1st bolt, back clean it to reduce rope drag. There are some good fixed wired nuts on Coyote, but feel free to back them up. At the top of the face step right into the corner with the roof looming overhead. Head across the bolted traverse until you join Missouri. Finish up Missouri. A double bolt anchor with chains/carabiners allows you to lower off before the final overhanging section. Finish up to the tree for a fun additional few moves of 5.9+.
Location
Left end of Hidden Roofs. The big "Friend from Kansas" dihedral is an obvious feature which helps identify the general area.
Protection
There are 4 fixed wired nuts in the Coyote crack and a #13 nut in the corner before the traverse. Please don't steal them. You can bring small cams, tri-cams and small nuts if you want to supplement the fixed gear. As always, inspect the fixed gear and use your own judgement. Important! To avoid nasty rope drag... clip the top fixed wired nut that is in the corner with an alpine draw, clip the first bolt in the traverse with a standard short quickdraw, the second with a 12" draw and the last two bolts with long alpine draws. You will get screwed with rope drag if you try to use sport climbing short quickdraws all the way up this climb. Stop at the bolted anchor, or power on through to the tree for the last bit of fun.
0 Comments