Jungle Gym "monkey bar variation"
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 3.3 from 3 votes
Type: | Sport, 55 ft (17 m) |
FA: | Ben Wyse |
Page Views: | 21 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Ben Wyse on Jul 27, 2024 |
Admins: | Shawn Heath, Aaron Parlier |
Description
Don't exit up onto the ledge when making the initial traverse below the roof. Keep your feet comfortably low on the slab as you exit from under the roof. Once past the roof reach up for a good hold and clip the bolt placed upward into the bottom of the roof. Climb up and to the right on great holds with really bad feet. Near the outside corner pull up to another good jug. Aim for the sling on the horn at the top (equipped with a resident carabiner). Mantle up onto the ledge to join the regular route again. Amazing holds but strenuous. While somewhat contrived, it's possible to clip the last bolt on Jungle Gym (the one in the bottom of the roof) with an alpine draw and then head up left to finish on the Pitons and Tetons roof (it's final bolt is easy to see, there is an anchor at the very top of the crag). This addition doesn't change the 5.8+ grade, but adds some exposed and intimidating moves right at the top of the crag. Fun jug haul.
Location
Short variation to Jungle Gym which replaced the "standard" crux with a steeper option to the right.
Protection
When leading this variation I tend to clip the bolts on the bottom of the route with alpine draws. Sport draws fine are after that. The horn on the outside corner should have a resident sling/carabiner (which can easily be replaced on an annual basis). If the sling is missing the route is still very very safe. 6 draws total with an extra alpine draw if you finish on the wild Pitons and Tetons roof. All of this was initially led without bolts.
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