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Routes in Golder Dome

Buzzworm's Backyard T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dam Bureaucrats T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Klingons in the Neutral Zone T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Ten Years After T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Bob Kerry, Charlie Rollins 1988
Page Views: 1,832 total, 21/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Oct 3, 2010
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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12 Opinions

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Description

This is a really fun route with three pitches of absorbing face climbing, topped off by a nice crack (particularly by Southern Arizona standards!) on the fourth pitch. The climbing is technical and hard to read; there is a lot of micro-route-finding and mini-traversing, and some mild spice. Pitch 2 in particular is a gem. Kerry's description and topo are both very good, so I see no need to give a blow-by-blow account here.

[Edit, after a second trip up]: I would only say that on pitch one, after the crux, the climbing seems pretty contrived, as you can just go up the moderate gear-protected corner (shown on the topo) to the belay. The climbing out right may be better but felt almost annoyingly forced.

Location

The route is located on the left side of Golder Dome, and starts just right of the obvious, left-trending vegetated corner system ("Jungle Cruiser"). Look for the first bolt up and right about 20 feet. A hard 5.10 move past this bolt leads to a ledge--don't go up the corner, but instead move right to find the next bolt.

To descend, we did not do the last 4th class pitch, but instead rappelled from the "pointed flake" that Kerry mentions, which is even with the tree belay at the top of pitch four, but about 30 feet left (if you want to do this option, then there's no need to go to the tree on P4). Here was the only discrepancy that we found in Backcountry Rock Climbing: We rappelled with one rope to a set of bolts not noted in that guide, then with two ropes to the two-bolt anchor atop pitch 2, then with two ropes to the ground.

Protection

A full set of nuts (include rps), and a single set of cams from tiny to a #3.5 friend will provide sufficient, though not abundant protection. A couple extra hand-sized cams would certainly get used on the last pitch (be sure to save everything from #1.5 friend up for the hand crack on that pitch). Nothing larger than a #2 friend is needed on the first two pitches. Bring about 3 draws--the two 10+ cruxes are both well-protected by bolts.
These days I would have to give this route an R rating as there are some runs that will lead to whippers to the ground or ledges if you fall off. If you can't keep your head together on 10 to 15 foot run outs don't get on this climb. On pitch 3 the climbing is easy but there are some really long runs which is par for the course on old school climbs. If you cannot solo 5.8 don't get on it. That being said it is a fun climb. Didn't feel contrived to me even though bolts on the first pitch force you out right on to the strength of the wall and some great moves that warm you up for the crux second pitch. It was nice to think about Bob Kerry and Charlie Rollins out there and the numerous trips Bob and I made to do new routes on the right side of the cliff. May 14, 2017
Sean C
SLC
 
Sean C   SLC
 
Red C3- yellow C4 with a set of off-set nuts was sufficient to keep the route safe. Didn't use any rp's. All the cord on the rap anchors was lookin pretty good as of 3/18/15. By the end of the summer they'll need replacing. Mar 18, 2015
Dan W.
Tucson, AZ
  5.10c
Dan W.   Tucson, AZ
  5.10c
Stellar rock, amazing moment, and perfect positioning. If you climb the grade this is a must do! Nov 18, 2013
Andy Bennett
Tucson, AZ
 
Andy Bennett   Tucson, AZ
 
Bringing some extra webbing and a knife is a good idea out here in the Pusch. We cleaned up all of the old tat on Ten Years, but what we left will be outdated by the time the summer sun is done with it. This climb sports surprisingly solid rock that climbs quite well, it's definitely one of the better backcountry lines that I've been on in the local area. Mar 12, 2013
Andy and I were gazing longingly at some of those corners on Klingons. Golder Dome is a pretty cool spot all by it's lonesome. Mar 4, 2013
Or ***Clingons In The Neutral Zone. Mar 4, 2013
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
 
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
 
Clay, if I say it's good, it's good. With that said, you should have no qualms about jumping on Humungous Woosey :) Mar 4, 2013
This climb is great. We were prepared to do some choss-bungling, but were pleasantly surprised to find some stellar climbing on mostly bullet rock. The rock at Golder Dome reminded us of the rock at the Reef, very cool. If you have the time, the scramble to the summit is worth it. Mar 3, 2013