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Routes in Main Crag

Ante Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Booty Call T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bungle in the Jungle T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Crack a Smile T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Access T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Hangman's T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Happy Ending S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hi-C T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Jungle Blocks T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Keelin's Delight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Keelin's Dilemma T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
McLuvin T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Nice N Easy T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
One Move Wonder T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rip the Tips T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sassafras T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Swamp Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Time For Tim T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Undercling Slab T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Warm Up T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Zig Zag T,TR 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c

Description

Craig Spaulding and Paul Corridon have spent a lot of time and energy into putting together an incredible guide for the climbs of the main crag at Love Gap. Get their easy to print guide below.

sicgrips.com/Love_Gap_Guide…

The following pictures, route descriptions, and topos are all their work from the guide, and are reproduced here with their permission.

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Love Gap, compared to Seneca or Franklin, is an insignificant crag. It is definitely not a destination crag. However, it’s a great place to climb if you're a local or staying in Charlottesville, Staunton, or Harrisonburg. It consists mainly of easy to moderate trad climbing. Due to the wandering nature, multiple possible lines, and decomposed granite, it can be a bit of an adventure until you’re familiar with the routes. Most routes can be top-roped or traditionally lead, and there is one sport lead. Most routes will require you to lead an easier route in order to set a TR (the exception being the far righthand end of the crag where several routes can be set by hiking up and around). There is a wide variety of climbing including friction,
slab, crack, OW, steep face crimps, huge roof projects, and yes, choss! :-) Helmets are advised for both leading and belaying. We have pulled off everything from crimper to softball-sized chunks while climbing.

Most climbs are a single pitch, 60'-100' with one route having two options for a second pitch. It's climbable year round but since it's southwest facing, it's especially good from fall through the winter to spring. Even at close to freezing temperatures in winter, if the sun’s out and there’s no wind, it can be enjoyable climbing. In the summer it can be hot, sticky and the rock often has a humid/damp feeling which makes it less suitable than Raven's Roost or Little Stony Man
with their west faces and the prevailing westerly breezes.

Getting There

Location: From either the west side or east side of the of the Blue Ridge: Exit 64 at Afton and go south on the Parkway until you reach mile marker 16, then turn left onto Campbell's Mountain Rd. (Route 814). Proceed about a ½ mile on Campbell Mountain Rd (dirt) to a turn out area on your right. Alternately from the east, you can access the Parkway way by going up past Wintergreen, then south on the Parkway for ~2 miles.

The parking area is on private land and if there’s not a line across it (usually during hunting season), the owner has given permission for climbers to park there. Please do not block his driveway or gate and make sure you don’t leave any trash. If it is lined off, you can pull off to the side of the road and park. Proceed across the road and start down a rough Forest Service access road for about 50’. On your left there’s (often) a stone cairn marking the start of the trail between two trees. Further down the access road you will see a gate. If you’ve reached that, you’ve gone to far. Follow the trail traversing basically straight across the hill to the base of the crag, which is about 5 minutes walk. You’ll see evidence of private land markings on your left. However, the trail itself is on National Forest land. When the leaves are down it’s easy to see the rocks from the midpoint of the trail. However, after the leaves are out you won’t see the rocks until you’re almost at them. The routes are listed from left to right and the approach trail joins the crag at route 4.

21 Total Climbs

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Randy Garrett
Charlottesville, Virginia
Randy Garrett   Charlottesville, Virginia
So, a bit of a meander to get here but the directions actually are pretty good. I thought the rock would be bigger... All in all a worthwhile day trip from C'ville. Rock is mostly solid and not a lot of traffic in the area. Easier hike in than the one to Wintergreen! Aug 9, 2014

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