Main Crag Rock Climbing
|GPS:||37.876, -79.017 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
|Page Views:||11,164 total · 147/month|
|Shared By:||Dallas Branum on Jul 1, 2014|
|Admins:||Aaron Parlier, Shawn Heath|
The following pictures, route descriptions, and topos are all their work from the guide, and are reproduced here with their permission.
Love Gap, compared to Seneca or Franklin, is an insignificant crag. It is definitely not a destination crag. However, its a great place to climb if you're a local or staying in Charlottesville, Staunton, or Harrisonburg. It consists mainly of easy to moderate trad climbing. Due to the wandering nature, multiple possible lines, and decomposed granite, it can be a bit of an adventure until youre familiar with the routes. Most routes can be top-roped or traditionally lead, and there is one sport lead. Most routes will require you to lead an easier route in order to set a TR (the exception being the far righthand end of the crag where several routes can be set by hiking up and around). There is a wide variety of climbing including friction,
slab, crack, OW, steep face crimps, huge roof projects, and yes, choss! :-) Helmets are advised for both leading and belaying. We have pulled off everything from crimper to softball-sized chunks while climbing.
Most climbs are a single pitch, 60'-100' with one route having two options for a second pitch. It's climbable year round but since it's southwest facing, it's especially good from fall through the winter to spring. Even at close to freezing temperatures in winter, if the suns out and theres no wind, it can be enjoyable climbing. In the summer it can be hot, sticky and the rock often has a humid/damp feeling which makes it less suitable than Raven's Roost or Little Stony Man
with their west faces and the prevailing westerly breezes.
The parking area is on private land and if theres not a line across it (usually during hunting season), the owner has given permission for climbers to park there. Please do not block his driveway or gate and make sure you dont leave any trash. If it is lined off, you can pull off to the side of the road and park. Proceed across the road and start down a rough Forest Service access road for about 50. On your left theres (often) a stone cairn marking the start of the trail between two trees. Further down the access road you will see a gate. If youve reached that, youve gone to far. Follow the trail traversing basically straight across the hill to the base of the crag, which is about 5 minutes walk. Youll see evidence of private land markings on your left. However, the trail itself is on National Forest land. When the leaves are down its easy to see the rocks from the midpoint of the trail. However, after the leaves are out you wont see the rocks until youre almost at them. The routes are listed from left to right and the approach trail joins the crag at route 4.
Classic Climbing Routes at Main Crag
Days w Precip