Elevation: 1,984 ft
GPS: 37.869, -79.059 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 131,979 total · 1,166/month
Shared By: Andrew Cassidy on Mar 24, 2011 with improvements by Aidan Mickleburgh
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones

Description

This page is for the first 30 miles of the Blue Ridge Parkway. Long known for it's great traditional and top rope climbing at Love Gap (contains cliffs up to 200 feet with a few multi-pitch routes) and Raven's Roost, respectfully, the Parkway came in vogue again when the father son pair Barry and Brendan Condron went looking for bouldering potential at The Forest based on an old rockclimbing.com/routes/Nor… area. The area turned out to be a gold mine. After sharing the information with other Charlottesville climbers, development of the parkway's greenstone bouldering entered a golden age. Most of the rock is only a short hike off the parkway with some of it such as the 12.2 boulder being essentially on the road.

Taken from blueridgebouldering.com/
Most of the rock in the first 25 miles or so on the parkway is greenstone. Greenstone, more specifically greenschist, is the metamorphic child of basalt, but can climb a bit like sandstone at times. Greenstone can be a bit soft and fragile at times, but at others very solid. Greenstone has a lot of sharp edges and flakes on it, and can be painful to climb on at times. It may not sound that great from the way I'm describing it, and there are a lot of boulders that are just as bad as it sounds, but we've been very lucky and found many boulders that are solid and not too sharp. Greenstone definitely isn't the prettiest or most solid rock I've ever seen, but I'm certainly not about to complain about having so much of it so close. For more information on greenschist, you can read the Wikipedia page on it: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Green…

On some spots on the parkway, bands of Old Rag Granite run through. As the name implies, this is the same rock that you will find when climbing or hiking on Old Rag. Old Rag granite is very featured and grainy/sharp, but is generally fairly solid to climb on.

Parkway Bouldering Guides and videos
blueridgebouldering.com/
vimeo.com/87733157

Love Gap Guide
sicgrips.com/Love_Gap_Guide…

Climbing Season
The parkway can be climbable all year. Love Gap is south facing and offers from great winter-time trad. The Forest is generally 10 degrees cooler than the city of Charlottesville, so even on 90 degree days you can be climbing in 80 degrees. If we have a mild winter, the parkway is PRIME. However, the roads get closed for snow. Check the link below to see if the roads are open.
nps.gov/maps/blri/road-clos…

Getting There

Best access from Rockfish Gap/Afton Mountain... and head south on Blue Ridge Parkway.

170 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Blue Ridge Parkway

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V4 6B
 3
Giant Head in the Sky
Boulder
V5 6C
 5
Giant Green Goober
Boulder
V7 7A+
 6
God's Own Greenstone
Boulder
V7 7A+
 5
Midnight Train To Georgia
Boulder
V7-8 7B
 4
Green Goblin
Boulder
V7-8 7B
 3
Razzle Dazzle
Boulder
V8 7B
 3
Betamax
Boulder
V8 7B PG13
 3
What Could Have Been
Boulder
V9 7C
 3
The Seance
Boulder
V9 7C
 5
Life After Greenstone
Boulder
V9 7C PG13
 3
Bring Your Own Oxygen
Boulder
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 5
Kermit's Revenge
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 7
Undercling Slab
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
Crack a Smile
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
 6
Sassafras
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Giant Head in the Sky C-137 Area > Cranial Creator Boulder
 3
V4 6B Boulder
Giant Green Goober Forest > Greenstonia (Ridgeline)
 5
V5 6C Boulder
God's Own Greenstone Forest > Greenstonia (Ridgeline)
 6
V7 7A+ Boulder
Midnight Train To Georgia 12.2 Boulder
 5
V7 7A+ Boulder
Green Goblin Forest > Greenstonia (Ridgeline)
 4
V7-8 7B Boulder
Razzle Dazzle 12.2 Boulder
 3
V7-8 7B Boulder
Betamax 12.2 Boulder
 3
V8 7B Boulder
What Could Have Been 12.2 Boulder
 3
V8 7B PG13 Boulder
The Seance AVO > Seance Area
 3
V9 7C Boulder
Life After Greenstone Forest > Greenstonia (Ridgeline)
 5
V9 7C Boulder
Bring Your Own Oxygen 12.2 Boulder
 3
V9 7C PG13 Boulder
Kermit's Revenge Raven's Roost > Raven's Roost Cliff
 5
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
Undercling Slab Love Gap > Main Crag
 7
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Crack a Smile Love Gap > Main Crag
 3
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Sassafras Love Gap > Main Crag
 6
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad
More Classic Climbs in Blue Ridge Parkway »

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