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Ward Smith > Comments
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Sep 30, 2020
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The flake is absolutely not safe for gear, it is a big bongo flake that sticks way out from the base.
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Sep 25, 2020
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The top of this was bolted ground up by Mike Lyle in the early '90s and makes a good 11a in itself. Start…
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Sep 25, 2020
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FA: 1992. I originally used a TCU in the horizontal out left instead of a bolt because that's the way it…
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Sep 25, 2020
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Another Delaney/Polette route, late '80s. "You Picked a Vine Climb to leave me, Lucille."
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Sep 25, 2020
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This was called the Vine Wall, because it was originally covered with grape vines. Brian Delaney and Ken Po…
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Sep 16, 2020
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Sara is right, it has great gear, but it is a pain to place as it is always way above you in the horizontal…
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Sep 15, 2020
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FA: Ken Polette, late '80s.
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Sep 15, 2020
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FA: 1991.
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Sep 15, 2020
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FA 1992. This was my first ever 13.
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Sep 14, 2020
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This was a Brian Delaney toprope route from the late '80s. When I first went to the hollow, he was on it.
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Sep 13, 2020
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FA Paula King and Ward Smith, 1992.
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Sep 13, 2020
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FA: 1992 , I put this up originally as a one bolt and gear route, but I just did it today in its bolted for…
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Sep 13, 2020
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This was my hardest route when I put it up in 1990. I was close to sending and couldn't find anyone to clim…
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Sep 13, 2020
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Triple Bypass, FA early '90s. I rated it 12b, but tall people said 12c. On my list to rebolt.
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Jun 23, 2020
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I lead the face left of the route in the photo back in 1985. Durfee Dangler 11a and Dangler Direct 11c. Y…
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Jun 20, 2020
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This is another one that we lead in the mid 80s. May well have been done before.
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Jun 19, 2020
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I lead this with my broter Chris in the mid 80s. Not saying that I did it first, but dates at least to then.
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Feb 14, 2020
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Love to get the credit on this, but it is my brother Chris's route.
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Sep 8, 2019
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Great first pitch. Someone (Lee?) has cleaned it up. Seems more like 5.7 not covered in cornflake lichen
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May 7, 2019
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I led the first pitch ground up and on sight, being young and stupid, and took my gear sling off and laid o…
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Oct 9, 2018
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FA: Chris Smith
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Oct 24, 2017
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Rick Fleming did the first ascent on toprope in the '80s, I did bolt it circa 1988.
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Oct 7, 2017
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Just put the bolts in right now, sorry for the delay. It is dry and I've chalked up the holds so have…
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Aug 24, 2017
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Great story Lee, I thought this was Barefoot as well until I found it up and right off the ledge, complete…
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Jul 1, 2017
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"Blue Sky and Rhino Horns". 5.8+.
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Jun 27, 2017
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That's it. The nut is there to hang from and put the glue-in bolts in the holes (already drilled). I…
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May 16, 2017
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I first did this way back in the day based on it being a new route listed in Climbing Magazine, rated 10d/1…
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Oct 28, 2016
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Cardiac Arête, originally a top rope that was soloed by Eric Sutton in the late 1980s.
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Oct 28, 2016
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Tidal Wave, 10a, first ascent Ward Smith, 1990 or so.
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Sep 13, 2016
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Anchors have been replaced at ledge, somewhat lower than original. All protection bolts replaced with glue…
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Jul 2, 2016
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The anchors have been moved up to the same block as Lies, and there is also an added bolt at the top. The…
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Jun 27, 2016
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Just to be clear, I cleaned and bolted this route and it is anything but chipped. In fact, you probably wi…
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May 31, 2016
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Not 5.7, whatever it is. I Tr'd it and though 9 seemed right.
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May 22, 2016
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Did it on toprope, second try, did not flash...seems pretty hard, 11d?
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May 22, 2016
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White Toad (5.7).
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May 19, 2016
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The route is named "Model Citizen," 5.6 Deserves three stars, four if you do it in one pitch. FA: Ch…
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