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'The Buttress' or 'Delaney Arete'
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.4 from 5
votes
Routes in Mormon Hollow - Right Side
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'The Buttress' or 'Delaney Arete' T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bird Battle S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Casio Electric Piano T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Delaney Memorial Route S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Don't Sweat the Small Stuff S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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First Diagonal (aka Tree Crack) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hollywood and Vine TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Holy Braille S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Janitor’s Cadillac, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Methodical Madness T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Methodical Right (aka Pulchritudinous Panda) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mormon Experience, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Original Sin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Phony Maroni T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Priapism S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ramp aka Cursed Slab, The S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Second Diagonal T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Spring Wall Left T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Third Diagonal T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unknown 5.8 T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Welcome to Camp Hamp Hope S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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You Picked a Vine Climb to leave me, Lucille T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 55 ft (17 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 875 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Daniel Kaye on May 25, 2020 · Updates |
| Admins: | sara pax, Old Timer, jim.dangle, Joe M |
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Description
Starting with your hands on a nice ledge, mantel up, and spend the next 50 feet making big moves between horizontals and praying you hit the 1 ok/good spot in each horizontal. You sort of dance back and fourth on either side of the blunt arete, ending up topping out left where this meets the top of Second Diagonal. It would probably be much harder for someone short.
Out of the few routes I did, this is one of my more favorites in Mormon Hollow.
Hints (aka beta): tick marks would greatly decrease this routes difficulty, as the hard part is finding the good spots. A bad foot in the right locations is often better than a good foot in the wrong location. The crux is a big reach maybe 1/2 way up.
Out of the few routes I did, this is one of my more favorites in Mormon Hollow.
Hints (aka beta): tick marks would greatly decrease this routes difficulty, as the hard part is finding the good spots. A bad foot in the right locations is often better than a good foot in the wrong location. The crux is a big reach maybe 1/2 way up.
Location
It ascends a face/blunt arete between the diagonal crack routes (Second Diagonal and Birds Next). It shares an anchor with Second Diagonal. The start is sort of marked by a small but good (handhold) ledge about 6' up.
Protection
Protects fairly well, or so I hear. Gunks like horizontal pro I think? 2-bolt anchor shared with Second Diagonal.
You can TR by leading Second Diagonal, or maybe you can walk around and down from the top? I don't know though, ask a local, then tell me what they said.
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