Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Justin Hayes/Tim Kemple
Page Views: 1,779 total · 13/month
Shared By: Jeremiah Johnson on Mar 5, 2008 with updates from Fan Yang
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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A much harder big brother of Venus. Boulder through the small overlap, then tackle the crux between the 2nd and 4th bolts that involve long reaches between bad holds. Recover after the 4th clip, then continues in a somewhat sustained manner to the redpoint crux of Neptune near the top. There are a few exceedingly sharp holds, and 2 or 3 clips are strenuous. Excellent technical movements on good rock. High first bolt.


The route to the right of Venus.


Bolts (7?)


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Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
This is too hard for me but I have always wondered, does the name mean this route was chipped at some point? Jul 25, 2009
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
I think Tim thought it was, but I am not sure it really was. Sometimes people think things are chipped when they are not and visa versa. When cleaning for a new route it is also sometimes a grey area with chossy rock. I have only been on the route one time, so I'm not sure what specific hold/s he found questionable. It is kind of a sharp tweakfest if I remember right Jul 25, 2009
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Thanks Mark it was just something I have always wondered about Jul 26, 2009
FYI - The crimp some people match above the 3rd (i think) draw exploded yesterday mid-match by strong Quebecois Alex. He said it is still doable but harder and more body tension-y as you can use it but can't really match anymore. I've got the pieces if anyone wants them for the Rumney hold museum or forensic reconstruction or a terrible paperweight or anything. Repair might be possible but would be very hard I would think b/c of the many pieces. Jun 17, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
another hold bites the dust... dang... seems like rumney is falling apart... Jun 17, 2012
I've switched out a couple of the fixed draws on Chippah in past couple of weeks. I have the draws and will put them back up after I send. I they're yours shoot me a message here and I can get them back to you. I'm not sure who's draws they are. May 29, 2014
Ward Smith
Wendell MA
Ward Smith   Wendell MA
Just to be clear, I cleaned and bolted this route and it is anything but chipped. In fact, you probably will wish that it was, lol. The name refers to my cleaning and bolting Mercury, where I used a screwdriver (hand pressure only) in order to clean out a sandy pocket at the horizontal break. Tim thought it was chipped, and maybe for a purist it was. Jun 27, 2016
Will McFarland
Rumney, NH
Will McFarland   Rumney, NH
Just did this one. 13c to the 4th bolt jug, but you get almost everything back so the top crux doesn't add a letter grade, for me at least. Still, it's hard in the grade, could be 13d.

Not sure why someone would think it's chipped considering how sharp the holds are in the middle.

Breakdown of the route: V8 to the 2nd bolt involving a jump over the left side of the roof to a good edge and jug ear, and a really hard traverse right (technical crux) to what looks like a jug, but is actually 1 pad sloping spock hold. Then a hard 12d-ish section to the 4th both jug. I found the 12d-ish section to be the RP crux as there are some super bad holds (this is the only painful section of the climb) with long reaches between them, and you are a bit pumped at this point. 12+ after the jug, but you are rested and it is a non-issue if you know the moves up there, maybe just a mental crux. It is possible to get a decent rest at the last bolt. Neptune is way more pumpy! Sep 9, 2017