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Routes in Venus Wall

Constipation Prize S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dirtigo S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Little Mermaid S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mercury S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mercury on a Halfshell S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mountaineer's Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mowgli Grape S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Neptune S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Preppy's Crack S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Screamin' T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Secret Agent S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Shame on a Chippa S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Venus Envy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Venus on a Halfshell S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wimpy -Gilman Ridge, The S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Justin Hayes/Tim Kemple
Page Views: 1,580 total, 13/month
Shared By: Jeremiah Johnson on Mar 5, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

A harder version of Venus. Getting established over the small roof at the beginning of the route is probably the crux, but it continues in a very sustained manner, with another crux in the middle and a redpoint crux at the top. The holds are exceedingly sharp, particularly at the first crux, and the clips are strenuous the whole way, though also particularly at the beginning - a much harder route to lead than to toprope.

Location

The route to the right of Venus.

Protection

Bolts (7?)

Photos

- No Photos -
Will McFarland
Lebanon, NH
  5.13c/d
Will McFarland   Lebanon, NH
  5.13c/d
Just did this one. 13c to the 4th bolt jug, but you get almost everything back so the top crux doesn't add a letter grade. Still, it's hard in the grade.

Not sure why someone would think it's chipped considering how sharp the holds are in the middle.

Breakdown of the route: V8 to the 2nd bolt involving a jump over the left side of the roof to a good edge and jug ear, and a really hard traverse right (technical crux) to what looks like a jug, but is actually 1 pad sloping spock hold. Then a hard 12d-ish section to the 4th both jug. I found the 12d-ish section to be the RP crux as there are some super bad holds (this is the only painful section of the climb) with log reaches between them, and you are a bit pumped at this point. 12+ after the jug, but you are rested and it is a non-issue if you know the moves up there, maybe just a mental crux. It is possible to get a decent rest at the last bolt. Neptune is way more pumpy! Sep 9, 2017
Just to be clear, I cleaned and bolted this route and it is anything but chipped. In fact, you probably will wish that it was, lol. The name refers to my cleaning and bolting Mercury, where I used a screwdriver (hand pressure only) in order to clean out a sandy pocket at the horizontal break. Tim thought it was chipped, and maybe for a purist it was. Jun 27, 2016
I've switched out a couple of the fixed draws on Chippah in past couple of weeks. I have the draws and will put them back up after I send. I they're yours shoot me a message here and I can get them back to you. I'm not sure who's draws they are. May 29, 2014
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
another hold bites the dust... dang... seems like rumney is falling apart... Jun 17, 2012
stow  
FYI - The crimp some people match above the 3rd (i think) draw exploded yesterday mid-match by strong Quebecois Alex. He said it is still doable but harder and more body tension-y as you can use it but can't really match anymore. I've got the pieces if anyone wants them for the Rumney hold museum or forensic reconstruction or a terrible paperweight or anything. Repair might be possible but would be very hard I would think b/c of the many pieces. Jun 17, 2012
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Thanks Mark it was just something I have always wondered about Jul 26, 2009
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
I think Tim thought it was, but I am not sure it really was. Sometimes people think things are chipped when they are not and visa versa. When cleaning for a new route it is also sometimes a grey area with chossy rock. I have only been on the route one time, so I'm not sure what specific hold/s he found questionable. It is kind of a sharp tweakfest if I remember right Jul 25, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
This is too hard for me but I have always wondered, does the name mean this route was chipped at some point? Jul 25, 2009