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Early Access
Routes in Turkey Rock
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Brain Cramps T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Brain Front T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chopping Block T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Curving Crack Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Dash and Thrangle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Direct Hit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Eastern Front, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fiend, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Finger Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Finger Lickin' Good T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Glen's Pancake T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gobbler's Grunt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Great White Crime T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hallucinogenic Blues T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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In Style, Out of Fashion T,S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X |
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Jump Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Koto T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Little Edward's Little Overhang T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Nightime Madness T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Northern Comfort T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Rastafarian T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Route 902 T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Satyr's Asshole T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Second Coming T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Southern Comfort T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Stewart's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Straw Turkey T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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That's All You Get For Five Bucks T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Tofonareeker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tryptophane T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Turkey Challenge aka The Pro T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Turkey Shoot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Vanishing Point T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Where Turkeys Dare T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wild Fire T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 280 ft (85 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 39.11917, -105.23983 |
| FA: | Chuck Behrensmeyer & Molly Higgins |
| Page Views: | 3,126 total · 27/month |
| Shared By: | Sarah Meiser on Apr 17, 2017 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: NOTE: Access only from Turkey Rocks Trailhead.
Details
Description
The first pitch climbs a wide crack system for 90 feet (5.7) to the ledge atop Jump Start. Big cams are not required, as there are smaller cracks within that take an assortment of medium-sized gear. This always feels tough for 5.7 to me even as an offwidth lover. Rappel from the bolted anchor on the ledge or continue to the top of Turkey Rock in two more pitches.
If continuing to the top, sneak around the boulder on the far left side of the ledge, and continue up a broken crack system (5.7). The Haas guidebook recommends belaying after about 100 feet just down and to the right of a steel cable anchor. I continued up a bit more and belayed atop a huge boulder wedged into a big hole.
From the big, wedged boulder, traverse right (well protected) into the final big chimney at the top of Stewart's Crack, and follow it to the summit (5.7). A #6 is very nice to have near the top.
Location
Chopping Block starts in the wide crack between Nighttime Madness and Jump Start. Three pitches get you to the top of Turkey Rock. Do the standard walkoff to the east.
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