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> Cookie Cliff
The Stigma
A3
Type: | Trad, Aid, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | Dennis Miller and Brian Birmingham 1970 |
Page Views: | 3,732 total · 31/month |
Shared By: | Luke Stefurak on Jun 16, 2015 |
Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
a three pitch aid route. Only the first pitch goes free. The second pitch, rated A3, is only ~50-75 feet and has many fixed copper heads to two bolt anchor(good hardware). Not sure about pitch three.
Some Route History:
supertopo.com/climbing/thre…
Some Route History:
supertopo.com/climbing/thre…
Location
This is the first route encountered on the approach trail to the Cookie Cliff. It is located between Catchy and The Enigma. It is an obvious thin seam.
Protection
Since I am sure this route sees many more ascents on aid than free some beta on that version is probably in order. If you don't clip the bolts the line is probably C2+, although offset cams might drop the grade a bit. The largest piece I used was a #1C4 and I relied heavily on cam hooks and offset brassies. No skyhooks were necessary. As of October 2014 there were a disturbing number of yellow-jackets crawling around in the pin scars just above the anchor. Not sure what was up with that but they didn't bother me much, granted I sort of threw the rope through the steel biners and got out of there as fast as possible.
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