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Routes in 10 - The Cookie Cliff

Aftershock T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
America's Cup T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Anathema T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beverly's Tower T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Butterballs T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Butterfingers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Catchy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Catchy Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chicken Delight TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cleft, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cookie Left Side T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cookie Monster S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cookie-Center, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cookie-Right, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack-a-Go-Go T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Dynamite Crack V0+ 4+
Elevator Shaft, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Enema, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Enigma, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hardd T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Jardine's Hand T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Meat Grinder T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Outer Limits T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pringles S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Red Zinger T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Renegade, The T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Stigma, The T A3
Twilight Zone T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Twinkie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vendetta T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Waverly Wafer T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wheat Thin T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Aid, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Dennis Miller and Brian Birmingham 1970
Page Views: 592 total, 20/month
Shared By: Luke Stefurak on Jun 16, 2015
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

a three pitch aid route. Only the first pitch goes free. The second pitch, rated A3, is only ~50-75 feet and has many fixed copper heads to two bolt anchor(good hardware). Not sure about pitch three.

Some Route History:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1461930

Location

This is the first route encountered on the approach trail to the Cookie Cliff. It is located between Catchy and The Enigma. It is an obvious thin seam.

Protection

Since I am sure this route sees many more ascents on aid than free some beta on that version is probably in order. If you don't clip the bolts the line is probably C2+, although offset cams might drop the grade a bit. The largest piece I used was a #1C4 and I relied heavily on cam hooks and offset brassies. No skyhooks were necessary. As of October 2014 there were a disturbing number of yellow-jackets crawling around in the pin scars just above the anchor. Not sure what was up with that but they didn't bother me much, granted I sort of threw the rope through the steel biners and got out of there as fast as possible.

Photos

Jacob Smith
Seattle, WA
Jacob Smith   Seattle, WA
Since I am sure this route sees many more ascents on aid than free some beta on that version is probably in order. If you don't clip the bolts the line is probably C2+, although offset cams might drop the grade a bit. The largest piece I used was a #1C4 and I relied heavily on cam hooks and offset brassies. No skyhooks were necessary. As of October 2014 there were a disturbing number of yellow-jackets crawling around in the pin scars just above the anchor. Not sure what was up with that but they didn't bother me much, granted I sort of threw the rope through the steel biners and got out of there as fast as possible. Oct 29, 2014