Type: Trad, Aid, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Dennis Miller and Brian Birmingham 1970
Page Views: 844 total · 19/month
Shared By: Luke Stefurak on Jun 16, 2015
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

a three pitch aid route. Only the first pitch goes free. The second pitch, rated A3, is only ~50-75 feet and has many fixed copper heads to two bolt anchor(good hardware). Not sure about pitch three.

Some Route History:
supertopo.com/climbing/thre…

Location

This is the first route encountered on the approach trail to the Cookie Cliff. It is located between Catchy and The Enigma. It is an obvious thin seam.

Protection

Since I am sure this route sees many more ascents on aid than free some beta on that version is probably in order. If you don't clip the bolts the line is probably C2+, although offset cams might drop the grade a bit. The largest piece I used was a #1C4 and I relied heavily on cam hooks and offset brassies. No skyhooks were necessary. As of October 2014 there were a disturbing number of yellow-jackets crawling around in the pin scars just above the anchor. Not sure what was up with that but they didn't bother me much, granted I sort of threw the rope through the steel biners and got out of there as fast as possible.

Photos

Jacob Smith
Seattle, WA
Jacob Smith   Seattle, WA
Since I am sure this route sees many more ascents on aid than free some beta on that version is probably in order. If you don't clip the bolts the line is probably C2+, although offset cams might drop the grade a bit. The largest piece I used was a #1C4 and I relied heavily on cam hooks and offset brassies. No skyhooks were necessary. As of October 2014 there were a disturbing number of yellow-jackets crawling around in the pin scars just above the anchor. Not sure what was up with that but they didn't bother me much, granted I sort of threw the rope through the steel biners and got out of there as fast as possible. Oct 29, 2014