Mountain Project Logo

Routes in 10 - The Cookie Cliff

Aftershock T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
America's Cup T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Anathema T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beverly's Tower T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Butterballs T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Butterfingers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Catchy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Catchy Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chicken Delight TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cleft, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cookie Left Side T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cookie Monster S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cookie-Center, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cookie-Right, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack-a-Go-Go T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Dynamite Crack V0+ 4+
Elevator Shaft, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Enema, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Enigma, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hardd T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Jardine's Hand T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Meat Grinder T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Outer Limits T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pringles S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Red Zinger T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Renegade, The T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Stigma, The T A3
Twilight Zone T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Twinkie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vendetta T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Waverly Wafer T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wheat Thin T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Boulder, 20 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,420 total, 24/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Jan 29, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Ok, so this isn't on the Cookie Cliff (actually it's over a mile away) but you start the approach from the base of the Cookie and I didn't want to make a whole new area for one 20ft crack so this seems like as good a place as any to list this climb.

Dynamite Crack is either a classic boulder problem, or a not-that-great and ridiculously short TR/lead - sort of like Circuit Breaker. It's got quite an approach for such a small amount of climbing. From the toe of the Cookie Cliff, follow the Old Cookie Road southwest and uphill towards Foresta. It's hard to believe that cars were driving on this thing just over 30 years ago, because at times the road is wickedly overgrown and not even visible. Some minor bushwhacking may be required which will suck with a pad on your back.

Within a few minutes you will pass a long, 35ft tall cliff on the right side of the road/trail. Near the right side, behind a big oak tree, is a nice 10a finger crack in a right facing corner. This is not Dynamite Crack, but you should stop to climb it anyways, since it's on the way. Due to it's height it's really more of a 5.10a boulder problem followed by a 5.6 free-solo to top out.

From here continue another mile up the Old Cookie Rd, eventually passing in altitude from the brushy scrub-oak typical of the Lower Merced, into more of a pine forest environment. When you reach a section where the asphalt road is seriously undercut with a large steel cable showing, and you have to traverse a narrow path, then you know you are starting to get close.

At a flat and open area with lots of tall pine trees, you can see the flat top of the boulder with Dynamite Crack a couple hundred feet off to the left (downhill) of the trail. Dynamite Crack is the obvious splitter on the southwest side of the boulder. The crux is the first 6 ft of finger stacks and thin hands. The upper bulge offers better handjam pods at a committing height.

Protection

Pads, or a small rack of .75-2" cams.

Photos

0 Comments