Mountain Project Logo

Routes in 10 - The Cookie Cliff

Aftershock T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
America's Cup T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Anathema T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beverly's Tower T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Butterballs T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Butterfingers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Catchy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Catchy Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chicken Delight TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cleft, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cookie Left Side T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cookie Monster S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cookie-Center, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cookie-Right, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack-a-Go-Go T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Dynamite Crack V0+ 4+
Elevator Shaft, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Enema, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Enigma, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hardd T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Jardine's Hand T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Meat Grinder T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Outer Limits T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pringles S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Red Zinger T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Renegade, The T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Stigma, The T A3
Twilight Zone T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Twinkie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vendetta T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Waverly Wafer T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wheat Thin T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Henry Barber, Ron Kauk & Steve Wunsch 5/75
Page Views: 3,614 total, 29/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Jul 10, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


59 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Pronounced "Harrthh"...

Two great pitches would be classic if for better rock.

P1. Squeeze up the flake and jam the wide slot to the bulge where you can get sliver down to gold Camalot size pro and jams. Now it gets kind of exciting (spooky). The crack is actually part of a detached slab with some loose/vibrating (ohhh) flakes. At a point that is hard to describe, place gear high with a sling and bust out a cool face move up and right to join the upper crack. Its kind of a blocky flake/crack that actually takes good gear where you need it. Continue to lieback and jam as it steepens and culminates with a reach to a jug. (11a PG-13)

P2. A must do!! Enter the alcove where an awesome yellow Alien size wavy splitter (with feet) goes up (crux). Lock it up to a roof/slot type thingie and jam it to a jug...Cool picture of Bachar solo here, in some old mag...Get up into the sharp corner with the widening crack. Blue Camalot to C4 #4 Camalot size jams follows and using your honed, typical Valley fist/OW corner technique will get you up to a sloping ledge and an ant-infested tree with rap slings.

Location

Left of Crack-A-Go-Go.

Protection

Nuts. Double set cams from green Alien to C4 #4 Camalot sizes. 70M rope will work to rap off...Watch your ends.

Photos

blue ribbon
Indian Creek, UT
blue ribbon   Indian Creek, UT
I have unfortunately not climbed the second pitch.

With regard to the first pitch it is quite nice. I think some people have given it a pg-13 because you can't toprope yourself for about 10 feet of 5.8 climbing. To me it seems that if you think this is runout then you are probably a 5.10 redpoint climber.

I don't believe there was any part of the first pitch harder than 10c or 10d. That being said, I don't climb on granite very much and mostly just climb on Wingate and occasionally some Gneiss. It sure did feel easier than Sagittarius... 10b. Jun 5, 2017
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
Hardd is Welsh for beautiful, also the name of a 1960 Joe Brown route on Carreg Hylldrem in Wales. May 18, 2016
Michael Dom
  5.11b
Michael Dom  
  5.11b
That offwidth beginning was mean, I thought I was going to get speared by that pillar if I fell. I was worked by this route all over. One of the most severe thrashings I have had. Dec 13, 2015
Vlad S
 
Vlad S  
 
If you are the first one doing the 2nd pitch after some rains wash dirt down into the 4" fist-crack at the top of the pitch - well good luck to ya! And don't forget to bring a #4! I had a hilarious experience trying to fist jam (my fists are too small), nearly slipping out and switching to butterfly jams, which are more solid when the crack is so dirty, but then after a little while I couldn't take my hands out since the layback position is out of the question there (-: Ended up sliding back down with the butterfly jams still in, which cleaned the crack a bit and was then able to fist jam to the top for an onsight. Such a struggle! I used singles from #0.3 to #4 for the 2nd pitch almost in that order, with only a second 0.5 for the jug rest in the middle. If anything, bring a second #4 - you use it for half of that pitch. Nov 9, 2015
Nick Sullens
Yosemite/ Bishop
 
Nick Sullens   Yosemite/ Bishop
 
I remember the Supertopo says small to 3 inches or something like this for the second pitch so I headed up with only gear up to 3 inches! I definitely do NOT recommend this to anyone, as I had to walk my #3 until it wouldn't fit anymore, which still left me with about 30 feet to go before the top with no gear, spooky. Feb 8, 2013
I will second Luke's comments. Protect before and after the questionable section. Also use your feet and don't pull out. Just because you can sew it up doesn't necessarily make it safe. I have not tested that section of rock nor do I plan to, I consider it questionable and climb delicately through. I also climb high before the traverse, place a #3 with an extra long sling, step down, then traverse.

Use your feet well on the upper section or you will flame out. I have seen several folks blow it on the last move before the anchor.

Great pitch! Feb 2, 2012
p1 cleaned: Mark Chapman, 1973 FA: Jim Orey, Charlie Porter, 1973

p2 FA: Henry Barber, Ron Kauk, Steve Wunsch, 5/1975 Jan 7, 2012
Luke Stefurak
Seattle, WA
 
Luke Stefurak   Seattle, WA
 
It is possible to protect the traverse either with a big cam (#4 C4) or something smaller and deep. There is a 5-10 foot section lower down where you are climbing a fully detached pillar. Best to place gear at the bottom and then higher up you can place gear very deep(behind the loose stuff). Luckily the climbing in that section is only 5.9 Dec 12, 2011
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
on P1, You can get a #1 camalot behind the very top of the flake thing before you make the traverse move out right for the crack switch. Extend it with a shoulder (maybe a little longer than a normal shoulder length) and the drag shouldn't be too bad. The 20 feet leading up to that is kinda manky pro on that flake though. At one point I placed red aliens on both sides and clipped them together hoping that if I fell, opposition would squeeze the flake together rather than push it out of the way... not really sure that would have worked but it was worth a shot. Sick that the pitch is about 34 meters! Jun 15, 2011
Alexey
San Jose
 
Alexey   San Jose
 
I remember for second pitch I used all pieces yellow aliens size I had (4) and 2 #4 Friend.
Other gear was standard ruck up to#3 cam Jan 11, 2010
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
Give me a break! Perfect gear, coming from someone who likes to sew it up! No PG-13, and pretty full-on for 11a! May 7, 2009
Greg Smith
Canon City, CO
Greg Smith   Canon City, CO
I guess I think it is just a safe and well protected pitch as well, not PG-13 Jul 31, 2007