Type: Sport
FA: Bill Price 1979 FFA (1st pitch) Kurt Smith, Scott Cosgrove 1987 (on gear)
Page Views: 14,035 total · 97/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Jul 12, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Once a sketchy 5.12 gear-tinkering pumpfest, now a fully bolted 2 pitch sport route...Like so many older routes (Heinous Cling at Smith Rock comes to mind) that were mixed gear and bolts, the Cookie Monster is now a clip up.

There is a second pitch continuation called "Cookie Cutter" which is a continuous and steep (5.13) pitch of black rock, golden knobs and tiny, sharp crimps looming above the overhanging crescent-like seam of the fun and very chalked first pitch.

Getting to the popular 5.12- "first" pitch anchor is an increasingly difficult finger-lieback and stemming sequence with one BIG move and culminating with a crux section which can be pulled off in about 3 different ways.

Protection

SM/MED nuts and thin finger sized cams can be used to supplement the bolts on the "first" pitch...But, if you are strong enough to place anything, then you may as well skip all the bolts while you're at it.

Photos