Type: Sport
FA: Bill Price 1979 FFA (1st pitch) Kurt Smith, Scott Cosgrove 1987 (on gear)
Page Views: 13,445 total · 96/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Jul 12, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Once a sketchy 5.12 gear-tinkering pumpfest, now a fully bolted 2 pitch sport route...Like so many older routes (Heinous Cling at Smith Rock comes to mind) that were mixed gear and bolts, the Cookie Monster is now a clip up.

There is a second pitch continuation called "Cookie Cutter" which is a continuous and steep (5.13) pitch of black rock, golden knobs and tiny, sharp crimps looming above the overhanging crescent-like seam of the fun and very chalked first pitch.

Getting to the popular 5.12- "first" pitch anchor is an increasingly difficult finger-lieback and stemming sequence with one BIG move and culminating with a crux section which can be pulled off in about 3 different ways.

Protection

SM/MED nuts and thin finger sized cams can be used to supplement the bolts on the "first" pitch...But, if you are strong enough to place anything, then you may as well skip all the bolts while you're at it.
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
I thought P2 was always bolt protected. Also, isn't "Cookie Monster" the name of the 12a pitch, and "Cookie Cutter" the name of the second, 13b pitch? Anyway, the 2nd pitch is pretty solid for the grade. Very sharp and thin, with some reachy moves near the top. Jul 12, 2007
Will S
Joshua Tree
Will S   Joshua Tree
Basically enduro liebacking with decent edges for feet and a short crux sequence where the crack arches and thins. Can't say that I've seen anyone supplement the bolts with gear other than placing one stopper on the way to the first bolt. Jul 16, 2007
Hank Caylor
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Hank Caylor   Glenwood Springs, CO  
 
Mono, I thought that the 2nd pitch was called Cookie Cutter and is really just an extension of 1st pitch Cookie Monster ~12a. Lotsa glue but great fun, I also sorta thought Eddie Berry did the 2nd pitch and Kurt Smith the 1st. Funny it says "pitch 1 and Pitch 2" but when you do both it's just one long-ish pitch. Anyways, soooper good route but dammit it shredded the shit outta' my tips. Try and watch out for that fun variable.. Feb 11, 2008
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
  5.12-
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
  5.12-
I belive that Hank and Mono are correct on the names and the bolting situation, the first pitch was lead all on gear and called 5.12c and was later bolted by or with the permission of the first ascentionist. Aug 18, 2008
Ben Lepesant
Innsbruck, AT
Ben Lepesant   Innsbruck, AT
with all the bolts, I think the 1. pitch is on the really soft side of the grade. If this lieback is 12a, then Moratorium too felt like 12a for me, I guess 11c is more appropriate...
excellent sportclimb though! Jan 27, 2009
Brad G  
doing P.1 on gear is way to go. Dose anyone know if P.2 has gone on gear? That stuff is hard and deperate. I'd assume it would be given an X rating. Jun 17, 2009
Pitch one is entry level 12a. with or without bolts. Its mostly 5.10 on great holds.

"C" is for Cookie. That's good enough for me! - Cookie Monster. Jan 6, 2010
Josh Janes    
 
I don't think P2 would deserve the X... a couple great gear placements exist, and even if they didn't, there's a heck of a lot of air below you. I found the moves from the last bolt to the anchor impossible. Jun 11, 2010
Got on the second pitch this past weekend. I had finally worked out the tough boulder problem between the last bolt and the anchors. It is by far the hardest part of the route (adding maybe a +-V7 boulder prob), but a local said the line breaks out right to the crack to the anchors. Anyone know anything about this? Mar 12, 2013
Bolts recently replaced on the first pitch. Much better bolts now. Glue-ins. Also the botch job near the 4th bolt has been cleaned up. Thanks to whoever did this! Apr 7, 2016
Robert, it was my pleasure to rebolt and clean up CM.
Thanks to ASCA for providing the glue ins and glue.
CM is one of the only places to lap out on a hot August afternoon, as the cool air pouring out of Elevator Shaft keeps the alcove "relatively" pleasant. Apr 7, 2018