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Routes in 10 - The Cookie Cliff

Aftershock T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
America's Cup T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Anathema T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beverly's Tower T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Butterballs T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Butterfingers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Catchy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Catchy Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chicken Delight TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cleft, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cookie Left Side T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cookie Monster S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cookie-Center, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cookie-Right, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack-a-Go-Go T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Dynamite Crack V0+ 4+
Elevator Shaft, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Enema, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Enigma, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hardd T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Jardine's Hand T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Meat Grinder T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Outer Limits T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pringles S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Red Zinger T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Renegade, The T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Stigma, The T A3
Twilight Zone T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Twinkie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vendetta T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Waverly Wafer T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wheat Thin T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport
FA: Bill Price 1979 FFA (1st pitch) Kurt Smith, Scott Cosgrove 1987 (on gear)
Page Views: 12,276 total, 97/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Jul 12, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Once a sketchy 5.12 gear-tinkering pumpfest, now a fully bolted 2 pitch sport route...Like so many older routes (Heinous Cling at Smith Rock comes to mind) that were mixed gear and bolts, the Cookie Monster is now a clip up.

There is a second pitch continuation called "Cookie Cutter" which is a continuous and steep (5.13) pitch of black rock, golden knobs and tiny, sharp crimps looming above the overhanging crescent-like seam of the fun and very chalked first pitch.

Getting to the popular 5.12- "first" pitch anchor is an increasingly difficult finger-lieback and stemming sequence with one BIG move and culminating with a crux section which can be pulled off in about 3 different ways.

Protection

SM/MED nuts and thin finger sized cams can be used to supplement the bolts on the "first" pitch...But, if you are strong enough to place anything, then you may as well skip all the bolts while you're at it.
Bolts recently replaced on the first pitch. Much better bolts now. Glue-ins. Also the botch job near the 4th bolt has been cleaned up. Thanks to whoever did this! Apr 7, 2016
Got on the second pitch this past weekend. I had finally worked out the tough boulder problem between the last bolt and the anchors. It is by far the hardest part of the route (adding maybe a +-V7 boulder prob), but a local said the line breaks out right to the crack to the anchors. Anyone know anything about this? Mar 12, 2013
Josh Janes    
 
I don't think P2 would deserve the X... a couple great gear placements exist, and even if they didn't, there's a heck of a lot of air below you. I found the moves from the last bolt to the anchor impossible. Jun 11, 2010
Pitch one is entry level 12a. with or without bolts. Its mostly 5.10 on great holds.

"C" is for Cookie. That's good enough for me! - Cookie Monster. Jan 6, 2010
Brad G  
doing P.1 on gear is way to go. Dose anyone know if P.2 has gone on gear? That stuff is hard and deperate. I'd assume it would be given an X rating. Jun 17, 2009
with all the bolts, I think the 1. pitch is on the really soft side of the grade. If this lieback is 12a, then Moratorium too felt like 12a for me, I guess 11c is more appropriate...
excellent sportclimb though! Jan 27, 2009
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
  5.12-
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
  5.12-
I belive that Hank and Mono are correct on the names and the bolting situation, the first pitch was lead all on gear and called 5.12c and was later bolted by or with the permission of the first ascentionist. Aug 18, 2008
Hank Caylor
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Hank Caylor   Glenwood Springs, CO  
 
Mono, I thought that the 2nd pitch was called Cookie Cutter as well. Lotsa glue but great fun, I also sorta thought Eddie Berry did the 2nd pitch and Kurt the 1st. Anyways, soopergood route but it killed my fingertips. Feb 11, 2008
Will S
Joshua Tree
Will S   Joshua Tree
Basically enduro liebacking with decent edges for feet and a short crux sequence where the crack arches and thins. Can't say that I've seen anyone supplement the bolts with gear other than placing one stopper on the way to the first bolt. Jul 16, 2007
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
I thought P2 was always bolt protected. Also, isn't "Cookie Monster" the name of the 12a pitch, and "Cookie Cutter" the name of the second, 13b pitch? Anyway, the 2nd pitch is pretty solid for the grade. Very sharp and thin, with some reachy moves near the top. Jul 12, 2007