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Routes in 10 - The Cookie Cliff

Aftershock T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
America's Cup T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Anathema T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beverly's Tower T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Butterballs T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Butterfingers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Catchy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Catchy Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chicken Delight TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cleft, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cookie Left Side T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cookie Monster S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cookie-Center, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cookie-Right, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack-a-Go-Go T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Dynamite Crack V0+ 4+
Elevator Shaft, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Enema, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Enigma, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hardd T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Jardine's Hand T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Meat Grinder T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Outer Limits T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pringles S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Red Zinger T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Renegade, The T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Stigma, The T A3
Twilight Zone T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Twinkie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vendetta T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Waverly Wafer T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wheat Thin T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Ray Jardine and Chris Nelson (1973)
Page Views: 683 total, 12/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Apr 7, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This is a good crack climb that doesn't see much attention. It's located on the far left side of the Cookie, with a couple sport routes on either side of it.

The first pitch is a stout 5.8 fist crack up the corner which leads to a cool chimney/tunnel up the interior of the large exfoliation slab. This pitch can be done on it's own, however the descent is a sort of sketchy rappel from slings around a flake/horn. This unappealing rap anchor is shared with the 5.11 sport climb immediately left, and it should probably be retro-fitted with a bolted anchor on the main wall above the exfoliation slab.

To do the second pitch climb up to the narrow ledge above, and traverse about 40ft to the right (leave a couple directionals for your follower). Belay at the base of the obvious offwidth slot to the right of a bay tree.

The second pitch climbs the steep wide crack to the top of the cliff. The difficulty of this pitch is entirely dependent on the size of your body. I'm 5'8" and 130lbs and I found this to be one of the tightest chimneys I've ever actually climbed as a squeeze chimney (with only a couple sections where I needed to briefly bring part of chest out of the crack). If you are any bigger than me you will need to climb outside of the crack in the overhanging flare which will be hard 5.10 and an X-rated lead without Valley Giants. For people smaller than me this will be a comfortable 5.7 squeeze. The top of the pitch wanders up to the left and then cuts back right to a seated belay with a large manzanita for an anchor.

To descend, walk off to the left. It is also possible to rappel Hardd, which finishes a short ways to the right.

Protection

Pro to 8+ inches. Bring the biggest cam possible for the second pitch. A way tipped-out #6 Camalot can be placed in a constriction about half way up the pitch, but this will be totally insufficient if you are too big to climb it as a squeeze chimney.

Photos

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Chris N
Loveland, Co
 
Chris N   Loveland, Co
 
For most people squeezing through won't be an option. When Ray Jardine led this in 1973 he was below the crux for about 45 minutes till he got some pro - a large hex stacked with a 6" x 1 1/2" piece of nylon called a candlestick. Yikes!! Definitely 5.10 May 12, 2015