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Routes in 10 - The Cookie Cliff

Aftershock T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
America's Cup T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Anathema T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beverly's Tower T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Butterballs T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Butterfingers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Catchy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Catchy Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chicken Delight TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cleft, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cookie Left Side T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cookie Monster S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cookie-Center, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cookie-Right, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack-a-Go-Go T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Dynamite Crack V0+ 4+
Elevator Shaft, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Enema, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Enigma, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hardd T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Jardine's Hand T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Meat Grinder T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Outer Limits T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pringles S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Red Zinger T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Renegade, The T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Stigma, The T A3
Twilight Zone T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Twinkie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vendetta T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Waverly Wafer T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wheat Thin T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 105 ft
FA: Harvey Carter, Pete Pederson, May 1967, FFA: Peter Livesey and Ron Fawcett 1974
Page Views: 9,409 total, 70/month
Shared By: Karsten Duncan on Oct 13, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This fine granite jewel climbs through some prime real estate. The route starts as a seam that generally widens as you ascend. The crux comes down low but endurance is still needed on this rope stretcher. Be careful that your pro is placed carefully as this route has spit more than a few climbers and their gear to the ground.

Location

This route can be accessed by going to the right of bev's tower and then cutting up a trail that winds over slick rocks. Do a few short 4th class moves to access a ledge system to access several climbs. The climb begins 30ft to the left of Outer Limits as a seam near a small tree.

When lowering or rapping watch the ends of your rope

Protection

A standard rack of doubles and nuts should suffice although offset nuts or cams can be helpful down low on the route. Anchors are in a small alcove.
Michael Dom  
 
The first twenty feet had me shaking. I would highly recommend a black alien. Dec 12, 2016
Jordan Cannon
Bishop, CA
  5.11c
Jordan Cannon   Bishop, CA
  5.11c
Amazing route. Easier than Butterballs in my opinion, but harder to place gear, although I don't think it deserves a PG-13 rating. Bring some small cams and a few nuts and you'll be fine. Fun easier climbing towards the top Apr 3, 2016
Drew Marshall
  5.11c
Drew Marshall  
  5.11c
Rad! one of the best at the cliff
Gear is a bit tricky and hard to see but bomber and plentiful, stances are tenuous but not too pumpy. I'd recommend 2 sets of small nuts, and a couple tiny cams!
Harder if you're not tall Dec 20, 2013
Fat Dad
Los Angeles, CA
Fat Dad   Los Angeles, CA
Never heard the Crack of no pro remark, even as far back as the late 70s when I first started climbing there. The pro is there even with passive gear, just that much harder to place.

BTW, Livesey and Fawcett originally rated this .10+. Livesey wrote about this climb and others in an old Mountain magazine article titled "Arms Like Flies", a reference to the visiting Brits sometimes skinny physique when compared to some of the burly Americans. Feb 11, 2013
P1 cleaned: Roger Breedlove, by 1974 Jan 7, 2012
alpinista83
San Francisco, CA
alpinista83   San Francisco, CA
Absolutely. Without tiny springy pro, it would have definitely been a No-Go. But most people hike up with micro cams now, so let's do away with the spook moniker.

It's G-rated with modern gear and yes, appropriately, 11b unless you're putting it up with lilliputian passive pro and perhaps some 4 - 5'' nuts.

May 20, 2011
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
 
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
 
Yah, alpinista, that nickname was coined when your microcams and Ball Nuts didn't exist. Might make your experience a bit different. May 20, 2011
alpinista83
San Francisco, CA
alpinista83   San Francisco, CA
Crack a no-pro? Crack a no-go? Not really. It's a tough climb and the gear is a bit tricky, but it's 11c.. so yeah.

If you're not a purist, you can tree stem pretty high to protect the start with a BD .5 or even a high .4 and come back down. I did not come back down.

Small offset nuts, blue alien, triple and double zero C3s to protect the crux. A green alien can fit in the suspect flake on the right. If you place as much gear as I did without slings, rope drag can be a problem. Didn't look like an issue for the other 4 that hiked it right after me.

Super cool route. May 18, 2011
Q B
Estes Park
Q B   Estes Park
I recall getting a great little red bd cam (super little) somewhere about the crux.
The climb seemed to keep on for me, eased up a little but I guess I grunted so hard at the bottom, I got all out of sorts and couldn't relax. Great climb at the grade!!! Aug 30, 2010
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
 
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
 
Techy, but the crux is somewhat powerful and dynamic for a few moves. Unless you (er, your partner) happens to have a wingspan of 6'7", +4 ape index, and climbs 5.12...then it's just techy.

This route has been known as Crack-a-No-Pro...according to one of my highly knowledgeable sources. Mar 23, 2010
Michael Ybarra
on the road
 
Michael Ybarra   on the road
 
Really, an amazing route. You can use the tree to place a bomber gray or purple cam in the left crack to protect the opening moves. That gets you to a tricky stance and some hard to place but solid small nuts. Fire the crux. Pretty straight forward from there but save a couple of small nuts for high on the route.

With a 60 m rope I was able to lower off but my belayer had to climb into the tree a few feet for me to reach the ground. Sep 19, 2009
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
FFA Peter Livesey and Ron Fawcett 1974 (visiting Brits) Jan 16, 2007