Type: Trad, 105 ft
FA: Harvey Carter, Pete Pederson, May 1967, FFA: Peter Livesey and Ron Fawcett 1974
Page Views: 10,716 total · 72/month
Shared By: Karsten Duncan on Oct 13, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

98 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details


This fine granite jewel climbs through some prime real estate. The route starts as a seam that generally widens as you ascend. The crux comes down low but endurance is still needed on this rope stretcher. Be careful that your pro is placed carefully as this route has spit more than a few climbers and their gear to the ground.


This route can be accessed by going to the right of bev's tower and then cutting up a trail that winds over slick rocks. Do a few short 4th class moves to access a ledge system to access several climbs. The climb begins 30ft to the left of Outer Limits as a seam near a small tree.

When lowering or rapping watch the ends of your rope


A standard rack of doubles and nuts should suffice although offset nuts or cams can be helpful down low on the route. Anchors are in a small alcove.
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
FFA Peter Livesey and Ron Fawcett 1974 (visiting Brits) Jan 16, 2007
Michael Ybarra
on the road
Michael Ybarra   on the road
Really, an amazing route. You can use the tree to place a bomber gray or purple cam in the left crack to protect the opening moves. That gets you to a tricky stance and some hard to place but solid small nuts. Fire the crux. Pretty straight forward from there but save a couple of small nuts for high on the route.

With a 60 m rope I was able to lower off but my belayer had to climb into the tree a few feet for me to reach the ground. Sep 19, 2009
Los Alamos, NM
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
Techy, but the crux is somewhat powerful and dynamic for a few moves. Unless you (er, your partner) happens to have a wingspan of 6'7", +4 ape index, and climbs 5.12...then it's just techy.

This route has been known as Crack-a-No-Pro...according to one of my highly knowledgeable sources. Mar 23, 2010
Estes Park
Q B   Estes Park
I recall getting a great little red bd cam (super little) somewhere about the crux.
The climb seemed to keep on for me, eased up a little but I guess I grunted so hard at the bottom, I got all out of sorts and couldn't relax. Great climb at the grade!!! Aug 30, 2010
San Francisco, CA
Shino   San Francisco, CA
Crack a no-pro? Crack a no-go? Not really. It's a tough climb and the gear is a bit tricky, but it's 11c.. so yeah.

If you're not a purist, you can tree stem pretty high to protect the start with a BD .5 or even a high .4 and come back down. I did not come back down.

Small offset nuts, blue alien, triple and double zero C3s to protect the crux. A green alien can fit in the suspect flake on the right. If you place as much gear as I did without slings, rope drag can be a problem. Didn't look like an issue for the other 4 that hiked it right after me.

Super cool route. May 18, 2011
Los Alamos, NM
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
Yah, alpinista, that nickname was coined when your microcams and Ball Nuts didn't exist. Might make your experience a bit different. May 20, 2011
San Francisco, CA
Shino   San Francisco, CA
Absolutely. Without tiny springy pro, it would have definitely been a No-Go. But most people hike up with micro cams now, so let's do away with the spook moniker.

It's G-rated with modern gear and yes, appropriately, 11b unless you're putting it up with lilliputian passive pro and perhaps some 4 - 5'' nuts.

May 20, 2011
P1 cleaned: Roger Breedlove, by 1974 Jan 7, 2012
Fat Dad
Los Angeles, CA
Fat Dad   Los Angeles, CA
Never heard the Crack of no pro remark, even as far back as the late 70s when I first started climbing there. The pro is there even with passive gear, just that much harder to place.

BTW, Livesey and Fawcett originally rated this .10+. Livesey wrote about this climb and others in an old Mountain magazine article titled "Arms Like Flies", a reference to the visiting Brits sometimes skinny physique when compared to some of the burly Americans. Feb 11, 2013
Drew Marshall
Drew Marshall  
Rad! one of the best at the cliff
Gear is a bit tricky and hard to see but bomber and plentiful, stances are tenuous but not too pumpy. I'd recommend 2 sets of small nuts, and a couple tiny cams!
Harder if you're not tall Dec 20, 2013
Jordan Cannon
Bishop, CA
Jordan Cannon   Bishop, CA
Amazing route. Easier than Butterballs in my opinion, but harder to place gear, although I don't think it deserves a PG-13 rating. Bring some small cams and a few nuts and you'll be fine. Fun easier climbing towards the top Apr 3, 2016
Michael Dom  
The first twenty feet had me shaking. I would highly recommend a black alien. Dec 12, 2016