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Routes in 10 - The Cookie Cliff

Aftershock T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
America's Cup T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Anathema T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beverly's Tower T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Butterballs T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Butterfingers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Catchy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Catchy Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chicken Delight TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cleft, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cookie Left Side T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cookie Monster S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cookie-Center, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cookie-Right, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack-a-Go-Go T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Dynamite Crack V0+ 4+
Elevator Shaft, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Enema, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Enigma, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hardd T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Jardine's Hand T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Meat Grinder T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Outer Limits T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pringles S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Red Zinger T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Renegade, The T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Stigma, The T A3
Twilight Zone T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Twinkie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vendetta T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Waverly Wafer T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wheat Thin T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: FA: Believed to be Kim Schmitz, Jim Madsen, 1967 FFA: Jim Pettigrew, Jim Bridwell and Mark Klemens, 10/1971
Page Views: 6,478 total, 50/month
Shared By: Todd Grier on Mar 31, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Great to top-rope if you have rope gun to set it up. Great to work on the 10+ level on thin hands.

Location

Belay on the large slab.

Protection

up to 2"

Photos

Adal Bermann
San Diego, California
 
Adal Bermann   San Diego, California
 
Yes the block at the anchor up top is moving. I was there with a Yosemite climbing ranger who was a little spooked too but said that previous attempts to drop the block revealed it is actually well wedged in place. May 24, 2017
Ned
Ned  
This may or may not be the same "loose block" referred to by people above, but while climbing this past weekend (Sunday May 14 2017), the entire ledge you stand on at the anchors of the pitch was occasionally shaking. It felt like when you're standing next to a bulldozer and it slams its bucket to the ground. Super unnerving. I noticed this once while belaying my partner up Catchy, and twice while waiting for him to rap down after doing Catchy Corner. It didn't seem to be caused by any other movement in general, I could just feel it under my feel. I'm not sure where the "shaking block" ends and the "entire wall" begins, but if/when it comes off it will be massive. Would be interested if any Yosemite local could check it out and verify if this is business as usual or new exfoliation/movement. May 15, 2017
Michael Dom  
 
Its good, the end is what you need to focus on. Dec 13, 2015
aaron hope
Walnut Creek, CA
aaron hope   Walnut Creek, CA
WARNING: Ledge at top is dangerously loose as of 4/27/2015. Did this for the second time this year. Didn't notice anything either time I climbed it, but the second time, after rapping from Catchy Corner to the top of Catchy, I waited at the top of the Catchy anchors while my partner rapped....and the ledge you stand on MOVES. It was literally shaking back and forth about an inch as my partner rappelled, caused by the force of the weighted rope leveraging over the lip. The block is about triangular, 4-ft by 4-ft and you can see a hairline crack that separates it from the rest of the rock.

The dangerous part is most folks won't notice it unless you're a big guy who yards really hard on it after the crux. It probably shakes unnoticed by all top-roppers and rappers. It will come off someday. Possibly soon. IT IS NOT GONE as some others have said. Apr 27, 2015
I spent a couple weeks in The Valley in the fall of '79 after a summer of rowing boats down the Middle Fork. I'd hitchhiked, so lacked wheels to get down to the Cookie. My rack was stoppers, hexes and one Friend. Poking around Camp IV, I found a partner who was gung-ho for some harder cracks, so ,car-less, we hitched together; and our ride was with a couple of guys sharing our destination. When they heard we were going to do Catchy, immediately they asked, "Got any Friends?" And my response in the affirmative with a single #2 was met with, "Cool, save it for the crux." We did Beverly's Tower to Wheat Thin, rapped feeling strong and headed over to Catchy. That pro advice rang true for our onr camming unit, and that climb kicked my ass: landing the perfect, cupper hand jam at the top was like getting a big breath of air after getting window shaded in a keeper hole. I did not fall, so I guess my brand new EBs were doing their magic. We'd planned on carrying on with Catchy Corner above, but that ass whippin' sent us both back to camp. The climb proved much easier, and less strenuous, when I returned a couple of years later with 4 SLCDs. Apr 3, 2015
Raddam6
Salt Lake
Raddam6   Salt Lake
Bring 3 camalots of sizes .5 and .75 if you want to protect well and have enough gear. I watched a girl back clean 3 times on one go. Save 2 of each for after the big ledge at ~40 feet. Oct 18, 2014
Mr. Stevens
Boulder, CO
Mr. Stevens   Boulder, CO
climbed this back in early June and was sitting on the block just below the anchors bringing my second up to go do catchy corner. When my partner got up, he yarded on the block and pulled himself up onto it and the thing flexed quite a bit. I'm not sure if this is the 'flexing jug' people have been referring to, but this is a microwave sized block and it's definitely moving ALOT. Jun 29, 2013
SirTobyThe3rd
  5.10c
SirTobyThe3rd  
  5.10c
Heard that jug/flake is gone now. But supposedly did not make the climbing harder. Nov 8, 2012
Nope, it's still there and may be there for a long time to come. Or it might get pulled off by the next party, who knows? I think an inch is a bit of an exageration though.

Another awesome pitch! Feb 2, 2012
FA: Believed to be Kim Schmitz, Jim Madsen, 1967
FFA: Jim Pettigrew, Jim Bridwell, Mark Klemens, 10/1971 Jan 7, 2012
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
Flexing jug now gone. May 31, 2011
Alexander Nees
Grand Junction, CO
Alexander Nees   Grand Junction, CO
I've done this route only once... but I'm not sure where this flexing jug is at the top. I made the big move, reached up, and just dropped a handjam in the slot at the top. Seemed the obvious way to do it, and I didn't notice any looseness or flexing that way. Mar 4, 2011
Luke Stefurak
Seattle, WA
 
Luke Stefurak   Seattle, WA
 
I know this climb gets done a dozen times a weekend but the final "jug" that you make the big move to is flexing (I climbed it two weeks ago). It seems to be a flake and moves almost an inch. FYI! Mar 3, 2011
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
  5.10d
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
  5.10d
In the Sierra Club Mountaineering Journal, Ascent, 1973, Jim Bridwell proposed subdividing the Yosemite Decimal System with letter grades. In his examples for 5.10d thin cracks he listed Catchy, Vanishing Point, Serenity Crack, Olga's Trick, Five & Dime, Leaning Meany, and Independence Pinnacle, Center route, p3. Jan 31, 2011
tallmark515
San Francisco
 
tallmark515   San Francisco
 
got spit off the crux which is tricky, even at 6'4". Keep your feet below you, don't be tempted to leverage your foot off the ledge off to the left side, it will screw up your balance. Use the pods and the sloping ledge for your feet. Mar 12, 2010
Bring doubles of the 1.5 - 2.5 friends. Save a small piece for the crux move at the top. Jan 6, 2010
Heads-up! The hold in the crux which your right hand latches after the reach is way loose...The move will probably be easier when it pulls out! Jul 10, 2007
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
In my humble opinion, the thin hands stuff was .10a-ish? Crux for me was the short fingers section, which I found much more difficult than the guidebook crux. Jun 6, 2007
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
 
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
 
To the author: I don't think the thin hands part is .10+. Jun 6, 2007
Will S
Joshua Tree
 
Will S   Joshua Tree
 
Nice crack, mostly thin hands with an occasional hand jam and a long crux move off a fingerlock to a jug. Plenty of rests and good footholds allow you to remain fresh for the crux that shows up just before the top. May 8, 2007