Type: Trad, 115 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Ray Jardine
Page Views: 1,837 total · 29/month
Shared By: Colin Moorhead on Sep 28, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Another great pitch at the Cookie! It is easily as fun as any other 5.11 on the wall, more deserving than the single star the Don Reid guide gives it.

1. 5.10b. Access by climbing Anathema's first pitch to a spacious, shady belay ledge.

2. 5.11a. Climb the excellent 5.9 hand crack of Anathema pitch two. Continue straight up the steep corner above, passing two distinct thin cruxes with great, steep hands in between. A 70m rope just makes back to the belay ledge (35.5m).

Protection

Rack: nothing out of the ordinary.

Thanks to whoever installed the modern rap anchor on top!

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Salamanizer suchoski
Janesville Ca.
 
Salamanizer suchoski   Janesville Ca.  
 
I agree, this route is totally bitchen. Sep 30, 2013
Johnny Y
California
 
Johnny Y   California
 
This is an amazing climb and I don't understand why it gets little traffic. Micros would be good for the crux, which I thought was harder and way more committing than any single move on catchy corner at the same grade. Feb 17, 2015
Alexey Zelditch
San Jose
 
Alexey Zelditch   San Jose
 
two distinct cruxes: first just after the slings in the middle - overhanging finger crack and second two face moves closer to the end - where crack disappears for ~8 feet May 20, 2015