Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Gerry Czamanske and Warren Harding 1959, FFA: Roger Breedlove, Alan Bard, May 1973
Page Views: 5,454 total · 37/month
Shared By: Nate Weitzel on Oct 9, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

This pitch provides a moderate approach pitch to the classic routes, Butterfingers, Butterballs, and Wheat Thin. Fun pitch that has some good stemming through a dihedral and reasonable protection. Continue above to bolts on ledge that serves as the start for the upper routes.

Location

Locate Meatgrider(large crack in dihedral)and Cookie Monster( 5.13a bolted route up overhanging arete) after making the approach. From here walk around to the right of the cliff traversing along a small sloping path to gain the start of this one. You will be above a 30 foot section of cliff band at this point.

Protection

Standard Rack. Small Cams useful at the start, up to hand size for the top.

Photos

Sirius
Oakland, CA
 
Sirius   Oakland, CA
 
May not be a good line to push your limit on. Tricky, thin (and bomber once you get it right) gear from awkward stances on the bottom third. There was a fatal fall from this section a while back. Jul 10, 2007
Colin Simon
Boulder, CO
  5.10a PG13
Colin Simon   Boulder, CO
  5.10a PG13
I've heard that the fatal fall on this route was from a leader who didn't have any pro yet, and the belayer didn't make an anchor on the belay ledge, so they both took a 30 foot plunge onto jagged boulders.

So -- set up an anchor on the ledge! It takes a couple minutes, but it's worth it. Aug 28, 2009
tallmark515
San Francisco
 
tallmark515   San Francisco
 
pretty solid .10a and in your face right off the deck lead to a good rest then some fun stems and a cool roof with several options to the top. Mar 11, 2010
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
I thought this pitch was really good! And a great warmup for the wall. The gear is also not bad at all. Sure you have to climb above it a little but with a double rack and some offset nuts you can sew it up. Tough to set the TR off the anchors without drag over that edge though... maybe a #3 or #4 camalot would help with that? And per the other comments, it is fast and simple to set up a quick anchor for the belay. Jun 10, 2011
FFA: Roger Breedlove, Alan Bard, 5/1973 Jan 7, 2012
old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.10a
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.10a
just to keep the rumor mill in check: the climber who died was stephen ross. he had one piece in and it pulled. the belayer was 'fine' and stephen would most likely have lived if he had worn a helmet, he died of head trauma, but was alive after the fall...

Feb 14, 2013
The "Lower Merced Canyon" ratings (e.g. Arch Rock, The Cookie) are a bit stiffer than those in the Valley proper. Beverly's Tower is a physical and strenuous lead not to be underestimated despite a rating of "only" 5.10a. Oct 26, 2013
Salamanizer suchoski
Janesville Ca.
 
Salamanizer suchoski   Janesville Ca.  
 
The "Lower Merced Canyon" ratings (e.g. Arch Rock, The Cookie) are a bit stiffer than those in the Valley proper.

Not that I've noticed. They always seemed about the same throughout to me. Oct 27, 2013
Colin Szehner
Oakland, Ca
 
Colin Szehner   Oakland, Ca
 
Awesome route! Awesome roof finish! Gotta get that stem on! Jul 11, 2014
Tony Lobay  
 
Easier than Sacher Cracker. Easier than Hethenistic Pursuit. A tad bit harder than 2nd pitch of Central Pillar. Protects well and has rests. Fun! Jun 30, 2017