Avg: 3.8 from 28 votes
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft (30 m)|
|FA:||Chuck Pratt and Chris Fredericks, September 1965|
|Page Views:||12,365 total · 96/month|
|Shared By:||Karsten Duncan on Mar 22, 2010|
|Admins:||M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15.
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Begin climbing through fingers in a corner. Climb over a strenuous bulge and immediately reach right for a good rail. Mantle and move around the corner onto a good stance with old slings nearby. I like to set up a belay here to reduce rope drag and allow the belayer to see the leader throughout the rest of the climb.
From here the route is obvious. About 30ft of easy chimney, 30ft of 7inch crack, and 30ft of 5inch crack. 1-2 of the two largest C4s or Friends will protect the majority of the route. BigBros are not necessary. Generally the route narrows as you ascend so keep a few 1-3 inch pieces for the top.
Descent: Since there are no anchors near the top of this climb it is easiest to traverse to the chains atop elevator shaft (single rope 100ft rap). Be careful accessing these anchors.