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Routes in 10 - The Cookie Cliff

Aftershock T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
America's Cup T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Anathema T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beverly's Tower T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Butterballs T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Butterfingers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Catchy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Catchy Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chicken Delight TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cleft, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cookie Left Side T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cookie Monster S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cookie-Center, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cookie-Right, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack-a-Go-Go T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Dynamite Crack V0+ 4+
Elevator Shaft, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Enema, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Enigma, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hardd T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Jardine's Hand T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Meat Grinder T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Outer Limits T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pringles S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Red Zinger T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Renegade, The T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Stigma, The T A3
Twilight Zone T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Twinkie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vendetta T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Waverly Wafer T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wheat Thin T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Jim Donini, John Bragg 1974
Page Views: 4,122 total, 33/month
Shared By: Darko Sarenac on Sep 14, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This is the wildly overhanging hand crack on the right side of the cookie. It is in the shade till late in the day which makes it a good climb for warmer days. Climb the steep crack, reaching between good jams. There is huge jug at the top of this section. Straddle this jug for a good rest (this jug gives the climb its name). They say the section up to the jug is about 10c. The crux is actually on the remaining vertical section. Moving from a flared fist to a finger lock. BD No. 4 is useful here.

Location

Approach via the first two pitches of Enigma (5.8). Rappel the route.

Protection

Lots of thin hands to hands pieces. A number 4 Camalot is useful at the crux.

Photos

Best route I got on at cookie cliff. The crux was the flared fists at the top for sure. Jan 4, 2017
Michael Dom  
 
This was hard. I would bring triples of 1 and 2 if you want your life to be easier. Oct 12, 2016
I brought double to BD 3 on this. When I got to the top i still had both my 2's and 3's. I thought the bit up to the jug rest was harder than 10c, but the top still felt like the crux.

Wild route. I thought gear was pretty good, but it seemed very possible to take quite a ride if you blew it right at the top without taking time to finagle some gear. As long as you cleared the knobs it would be nice and clean though Feb 4, 2013
Alexey
San Jose
 
Alexey   San Jose
 
Found two new bolts on the top + to existing two old . thanks for community service!
The best to go for this route with gear hanging on the harness, not on the sling- since it very overhanging. 2x from Yellow alien - #4 Cam.
Route in the shade from ~11am.
For me crux is definitely before Enema hold, not after Oct 17, 2011
Scott W
Flagstaff, AZ
Scott W   Flagstaff, AZ
I screamed like a girl at the very top of this guy as I slid out of the flare and stopped on some tiny crystals just before whipping...bring some offset nuts or maybe just normal ones...I only took cams to a #3 and didn't get anything I would call "good" on the top section of crack until just before the anchors, hence the scream. Jun 24, 2011
Alexey
San Jose
 
Alexey   San Jose
 
Hard to believe that the overhanging part is rated 10c - it comparable in grade with the upper crux Apr 26, 2010
Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
I'm going out on a limb here and all opinions are just that, but I think this is the best route on the Cookie. Big words on a cliff containing Red Zinger, Outer Limits, Butterballs, Waverly Wafer, etc. The contrast between the overhanging, bomber hands and the anything but bomber finish really makes this route unique and a great tick that you will rarely have to wait in line for. Jul 25, 2008