Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Jim Donini, John Bragg 1974
Page Views: 4,651 total · 33/month
Shared By: Darko Sarenac on Sep 14, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

34 Opinions

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details


This is the wildly overhanging hand crack on the right side of the cookie. It is in the shade till late in the day which makes it a good climb for warmer days. Climb the steep crack, reaching between good jams. There is huge jug at the top of this section. Straddle this jug for a good rest (this jug gives the climb its name). They say the section up to the jug is about 10c. The crux is actually on the remaining vertical section. Moving from a flared fist to a finger lock. BD No. 4 is useful here.


Approach via the first two pitches of Enigma (5.8). Rappel the route.


Lots of thin hands to hands pieces. A number 4 Camalot is useful at the crux.


Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
I'm going out on a limb here and all opinions are just that, but I think this is the best route on the Cookie. Big words on a cliff containing Red Zinger, Outer Limits, Butterballs, Waverly Wafer, etc. The contrast between the overhanging, bomber hands and the anything but bomber finish really makes this route unique and a great tick that you will rarely have to wait in line for. Jul 25, 2008
Alexey Zelditch
San Jose
Alexey Zelditch   San Jose
Hard to believe that the overhanging part is rated 10c - it comparable in grade with the upper crux Apr 26, 2010
Scott W
Flagstaff, AZ
Scott W   Flagstaff, AZ
I screamed like a girl at the very top of this guy as I slid out of the flare and stopped on some tiny crystals just before whipping...bring some offset nuts or maybe just normal ones...I only took cams to a #3 and didn't get anything I would call "good" on the top section of crack until just before the anchors, hence the scream. Jun 24, 2011
Alexey Zelditch
San Jose
Alexey Zelditch   San Jose
Found two new bolts on the top + to existing two old . thanks for community service!
The best to go for this route with gear hanging on the harness, not on the sling- since it very overhanging. 2x from Yellow alien - #4 Cam.
Route in the shade from ~11am.
For me crux is definitely before Enema hold, not after Oct 17, 2011
I brought double to BD 3 on this. When I got to the top i still had both my 2's and 3's. I thought the bit up to the jug rest was harder than 10c, but the top still felt like the crux.

Wild route. I thought gear was pretty good, but it seemed very possible to take quite a ride if you blew it right at the top without taking time to finagle some gear. As long as you cleared the knobs it would be nice and clean though Feb 4, 2013
Michael Dom  
This was hard. I would bring triples of 1 and 2 if you want your life to be easier. Oct 12, 2016
Best route I got on at cookie cliff. The crux was the flared fists at the top for sure. Jan 4, 2017
John Clark
San Francisco, CA
John Clark   San Francisco, CA
A few offset cams at the top are really nice if you want to sew it up for the flare. Jan 29, 2018