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Routes in 10 - The Cookie Cliff

Aftershock T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
America's Cup T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Anathema T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beverly's Tower T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Butterballs T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Butterfingers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Catchy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Catchy Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chicken Delight TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cleft, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cookie Left Side T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cookie Monster S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cookie-Center, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cookie-Right, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack-a-Go-Go T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Dynamite Crack V0+ 4+
Elevator Shaft, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Enema, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Enigma, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hardd T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Jardine's Hand T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Meat Grinder T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Outer Limits T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pringles S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Red Zinger T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Renegade, The T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Stigma, The T A3
Twilight Zone T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Twinkie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vendetta T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Waverly Wafer T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wheat Thin T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Jim Bridwell, Dale Bard 1974
Page Views: 7,842 total · 61/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Jul 10, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details


Sooooo Gooood!!!!!!!

From the upper ledge above Catchy...Jam, lieback and stem up the ever steepening corner until the yellow Alien/red Alien size crux forces you to pull and push a little bit harder. Master the bulge and stoke it up to the last little pull around too the right. Belay on the right most anchor.


Nuts, set of cams green Alien to gold Camalot size w/ extra yellow/red Alien sizes (mosty yellow). 150' rap to top of Catchy.


Michael Dom  
Try to use nuts at the beginning. You will be bummed up top if you blow your load down low. Dec 12, 2016
We used one 70m rope. To get back down to the lower rappel anchor at the top of Catchy safely without rappeling directly off the tree, we used this technique (not sure if there is a name for it): I belay my partner when she down climbs (on toprope) and plugs pieces to the rope on her way down. Once she anchors herself, she takes in rope and belays me while I down climb with the protection in place. I take out the pieces as I move down. Nov 20, 2017
Salt Lake
Raddam6   Salt Lake
Rap in 2 rappels with one 60m rope. Rap from the top to the tree at the base of catchy corner, then walk 25 feet to a bolted rap anchor on a large block
. Oct 18, 2014
Peter Valchev
Truckee, CA
Peter Valchev   Truckee, CA
Just did this for the 3rd time.. soooo amazing!

Rappel beta: a 70 meter rope will get you down to the ledge at the base of the corner with a large tree. A short rappel from the tree (and a slight swing to the side) brings you back to the bolts on top of Catchy, no need for a second rope.

I actually tried my new 80 this weekend and hoped it would reach the bolts directly from the top - but it does not... it's a few feet short. May 6, 2013
Use the new anchor. The old one will get your rope stuck.

able to reclimb pitches with only a little piece of cord Apr 30, 2009
Brad G
Brad G  
This climb Rocks! It's very beautiful. If you havent done it, do it. Nov 5, 2008
m-earle   USA
I got my rope stuck in the crack after rapping this pitch. I had a fun time re-climbing the pitch on 2 pieces of gear Sep 21, 2007
Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
This is one of my favs on the Cookie. I'm not sure why it does not get done more. Perhaps because it's difficult to see from the ground. I took a huge whipper trying to lead this early on in my climbing career when I was trying to bust into 5.11. I then returned with more crack skill, more cams and a cooler head and was able to enjoy the stellor sustained climbing with minimal fear. Combining this with Catchy makes for an amazing 2-pitches of climbing. Jul 11, 2007

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