Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Jim Bridwell, Charley Jones 8/71
Page Views: 5,508 total · 40/month
Shared By: Darko Sarenac on Sep 14, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

The crux is right of the belay. Climb the leaning crack to a fixed nut. At the crack disappears, a foothold appears on the right. Then reach far right for a good hand jam (11a). Easier if tall. Then climb thin hands to the top (10b).

There is bad potential for falling on your belayer. It may be a good idea to move the belay to the left.

Location

The climb starts at the top of Butterballs/Wheat Thin. You can do Waverly/Butterballs/Butterfingers as Nabisco (10c/11c/11a), or Beverly's/Wheat Thin/Butterfingers as Nabisco Light (10a/10c/11a).

Protection

Few small pieces protect the crux. Some thin hand gear for the top.

Photos

Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
no more fixed nut! hah. Oct 2, 2008
ALiens: 1 red; 1 yellow, 1 Blue for tips crack.

Cams: 2 reds and 2 greens for tight hands above. Oct 28, 2008
Alexey Zelditch
San Jose
  5.11b/c
Alexey Zelditch   San Jose
  5.11b/c
Hardest individual move on all Nabisco wall. Harder than crux on Buterballs Feb 23, 2010
tallmark515
San Francisco
 
tallmark515   San Francisco
 
The crux (first 15+ feet off the belay) was hard, but it is possible to set some good gear up high off the belay stance. Placing gear after that is a challenge until you get to a 5.10 roof with a good finger lock rest, then more 5.10 climbing to the top.

Probably easier on TR when you don't have to fiddle with gear.

The crux left me hanging more times than I'd like to admit :( Mar 12, 2010
"Probably easier on TR when you don't have to fiddle with gear"

! Mar 14, 2010
Woo-hoo! My first 5.11 in the valley! This thing is super bouldery. Plug a .4 C4 and a #2 C3 and then fire the crux. The 10b hands to the top will feel like 5.7 after the powerful crux. Sep 17, 2017