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Routes in The Cookie Cliff

Aftershock T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
America's Cup T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Anathema T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beverly's Tower T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Butterballs T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Butterfingers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Catchy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Catchy Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chicken Delight TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chips Ahoy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cleft, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cookie Left Side T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cookie Monster S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cookie-Center, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cookie-Right, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack-a-Go-Go T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Dynamite Crack V0+ 4+
Elevator Shaft, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Enema, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Enigma, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hardd T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Jardine's Hand T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Meat Grinder T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Outer Limits T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pringles S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Red Zinger T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Renegade, The T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Stigma, The T A3
Tennessee Wall T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Twilight Zone T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Twinkie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vendetta T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Waverly Wafer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wheat Thin T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 190 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim Bridwell and Jim Orey, 1971.
Page Views: 24,386 total · 166/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 16, 2006 with updates from Goran Lynch
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

A true Yosemite Classic! This climbs the beautiful crack to the left of "Elevator Shaft", for two pitches. Traverse right at the top of the second pitch.

People usually do the first pitch, then rappel.

Location

Left of "Elevator Shaft".

Run laps on pitch one with a single 70m rope, or a single 60m rope if the belay is bumped up to the base of the Elevator Shaft.

Protection

Pro to 3.5"
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
It's to the left of elevator shaft if you're facing the rock. Jun 6, 2007
3 #2 Cams and 2 #3 Cams. Glorious. Oct 28, 2008
Ian G.
PDX, OR
  5.10+
Ian G.   PDX, OR
  5.10+
Geez...I took three #3's up this and wish I had brought two more :0 Apr 24, 2009
Colin Simon
Boulder, CO
 
Colin Simon   Boulder, CO
 
This climb makes my balls drop!

AWESOME! Aug 28, 2009
Dynomight510
  5.10c
Dynomight510  
  5.10c
Steep, sustained and powerful. Thankfully its hand size. Solid for the grade. Sep 11, 2009
Run laps on pitch one with a single 70m rope, or a single 60m rope if the belay is bumped up to the base of the Elevator Shaft. Dec 15, 2009
chuck claude
Flagstaff, Az
 
chuck claude   Flagstaff, Az
 
its a great climb. Doing the 2nd pitch going to the left is also very good. Jan 14, 2010
tallmark515
San Francisco
 
tallmark515   San Francisco
 
P1 is an instant classic, bring three hand size pieces, if you're really scratching for gear, you can probably squeeze in a few fist sized pieces too. P1 seems about .10a, didn't do p2. Mar 12, 2010
George K. Watson
Nederland, CO
 
George K. Watson   Nederland, CO
 
Beautiful route. If there is a crux, it's low down at a little pod area and then the thing keeps going and going and going at hand size. A fistful of hand size cams enables you to pro this superbly. Jul 10, 2010
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
 
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
 
In the Sierra Club's mountaineering journal, Ascent, 1973, Jim Bridwell proposed the use of letter grades in The Innocent, The Ignorant, And The Insecure.

His examples for 5.10c thin cracks were Outer Limits (p2), Lunatic Fringe, Hardly Pinnacle, High Quality, Slack Center, English Breakfast, Sacherer-Fredricks, Hot Line (p1 & p2), and Mental Block (P1).

Pitch one of Outer Limits made the example list for 5.10b thin cracks, along with Gripper, Anathema, Easy Streaks, and New Dimensions (P1). Jan 31, 2011
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
wow. I mean, really... WOW! That is one awesome climb! Great hands for sooo long. Awesome and absolutely bombproof gear. You could take a piece or two that is between #2 and #3 camalot for the hands section as some of the #3s were pretty tight. However you protect it, enjoy some sick, bomber jamming! Jun 10, 2011
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
 
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
 
I found the "perfect 10a hands" up higher on p1 to be the crux: insecure off-hands for a looong ways in my case! The shorter, 10b crux down lower allowed tight hands and was easier to get through.

You get rests on this route, but many of them are what I would call "active rests"! Sep 13, 2011
Colin Brochard
Austin
  5.10c
Colin Brochard   Austin
  5.10c
Amazing route! Sooo close to the send, but alas the widening right leaning crack at the end wore me down just before the last rest. One hang. 10c seems dead on for me and my biggish hands, surprising that the consensus is leaning soft.. Nov 26, 2013
Drew Marshall
  5.11a
Drew Marshall  
  5.11a
don't skip the second pitch! It is rad. Dec 20, 2013
BITD you really couldn't protect the 2nd pitch traverse. There was a fixed pin or two, but they kept falling out and they really only protected the leader. If the second blew the 5.10c moves they were looking at a 25'+ swing into and hopefully, not onto, the Elevator Shaft.

The description only describes the first pitch. The second pitch continues up the good hand crack(5.9) for few feet before launching out into a 30' traverse right under an overhang. When Bridwell opened up this route he had to garden a whole lot of munge out of the 1st pitch crack. To make the 2nd pitch go, he traversed back and forth on aid, pounding in pins to make some finger holds. He also, supposedly, tried to create a few footholds as well, but, whatever is down there isn't very good. I am not sure how you protect the traverse.

The third pitch is a fun 5.10a, or so, lieback up a dark colored wall which is actually the final pitch of Twilight Zone. Descend by walking off to the left. Jun 19, 2014
Reed Gustavsen
Van Life, USA
  5.10
Reed Gustavsen   Van Life, USA
  5.10
first pitch is a total solid 5.10! great fun fingers down low and most beautiful hands up high. single rack will do with an extra #2 BD cam.. nuts not really needed. fixed alien 10 feet below P1 anchors. maybe lead it twice, too good to rush! Jan 28, 2015
Michael Dom
  5.10c
Michael Dom  
  5.10c
Bring your 3 inch gear, you will be happy with the more you have. You will be happy regardless though. Dec 13, 2015
Ben Horton  
 
On lead, it felt pretty pumpy, mostly just because it's sustained. If you like to have gear every 10 feet, take lots of #2's and 2 #3's. (Save them for higher up) To me, the "crux" was the middle third of the climb where it's supposed to be easier, but I have giant hands and wasn't getting hand jams until the top 10 feet. (I can hand jam #3's)

On TR, I realized that I was overly stressed on my onsight attempt because I was out of gear... it's all 10a moves, but a LOT of them. The sustained nature of the climb makes it 10b in my book. Jun 26, 2017
blue ribbon
Indian Creek, UT
blue ribbon   Indian Creek, UT
No sense in stopping at the first anchor, that's where it just starts to get good. Continue up the thin hands splitter on sticky rock and go left at the top for a well protected and fun couple of moves to the chainz. Oct 5, 2017
King Tut
Citrus Heights
King Tut   Citrus Heights
Barry Bates tells the story how he was invited to do this FA with Bridwell...said it looked too dirty lol. But Barry bagged some classics. :) Jan 5, 2018
master gumby  
 
if you like #2's and #3's this climb is for you. I am a shit climber but didnt think a four or any extra gear outside of doubles from #1 to 3 and a few smaller pieces were necessary. Oct 23, 2018
lperitz22
Berkeley, CA
lperitz22   Berkeley, CA
For those of us with small hands, the crux of p1 is the strenuous fist crack on the upper half. Extra #3s helpful. 7 days ago

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