Kevin Friedrich

[Hide Comment] 3 #2 Cams and 2 #3 Cams. Glorious. Oct 28, 2008

Ian G. PDX, OR   5.10+

[Hide Comment] Geez...I took three #3's up this and wish I had brought two more :0 Apr 24, 2009

Colin Simon Boulder, CO

[Hide Comment] This climb makes my balls drop! AWESOME! Aug 28, 2009

Dynomight510   5.10c

[Hide Comment] Steep, sustained and powerful. Thankfully its hand size. Solid for the grade. Sep 11, 2009

Osprey Overhang ...

[Hide Comment] Run laps on pitch one with a single 70m rope, or a single 60m rope if the belay is bumped up to the base of the Elevator Shaft. Dec 15, 2009

chuck claude Flagstaff, Az

[Hide Comment] its a great climb. Doing the 2nd pitch going to the left is also very good. Jan 14, 2010

tallmark515

[Hide Comment] P1 is an instant classic, bring three hand size pieces, if you're really scratching for gear, you can probably squeeze in a few fist sized pieces too. P1 seems about .10a, didn't do p2. Mar 12, 2010

George K. Watson Nederland, CO

[Hide Comment] Beautiful route. If there is a crux, it's low down at a little pod area and then the thing keeps going and going and going at hand size. A fistful of hand size cams enables you to pro this superbly. Jul 10, 2010

Ken Trout Golden, CO

[Hide Comment] In the Sierra Club's mountaineering journal, Ascent, 1973, Jim Bridwell proposed the use of letter grades in The Innocent, The Ignorant, And The Insecure. His examples for 5.10c thin cracks were Outer Limits (p2), Lunatic Fringe, Hardly Pinnacle, High Quality, Slack Center, English Breakfast, Sacherer-Fredricks, Hot Line (p1 & p2), and Mental Block (P1). Pitch one of Outer Limits made the example list for 5.10b thin cracks, along with Gripper, Anathema, Easy Streaks, and New Dimensions (P1). Jan 31, 2011

claytown Boulder, CO

[Hide Comment] wow. I mean, really... WOW! That is one awesome climb! Great hands for sooo long. Awesome and absolutely bombproof gear. You could take a piece or two that is between #2 and #3 camalot for the hands section as some of the #3s were pretty tight. However you protect it, enjoy some sick, bomber jamming! Jun 10, 2011

Aerili Los Alamos, NM

[Hide Comment] I found the "perfect 10a hands" up higher on p1 to be the crux: insecure off-hands for a looong ways in my case! The shorter, 10b crux down lower allowed tight hands and was easier to get through. You get rests on this route, but many of them are what I would call "active rests"! Sep 13, 2011

Colin Brochard San Diego, CA   5.10c

[Hide Comment] Amazing route! Sooo close to the send, but alas the widening right leaning crack at the end wore me down just before the last rest. One hang. 10c seems dead on for me and my biggish hands, surprising that the consensus is leaning soft.. Nov 26, 2013

Drew Marshall Squamish, BC   5.11a

[Hide Comment] don't skip the second pitch! It is rad. Dec 20, 2013

Bruce Hildenbrand Silicon Valley/Boulder

[Hide Comment] BITD you really couldn't protect the 2nd pitch traverse. There was a fixed pin or two, but they kept falling out and they really only protected the leader. If the second blew the 5.10c moves they were looking at a 25'+ swing into and hopefully, not onto, the Elevator Shaft. The description only describes the first pitch. The second pitch continues up the good hand crack(5.9) for few feet before launching out into a 30' traverse right under an overhang. When Bridwell opened up this route he had to garden a whole lot of munge out of the 1st pitch crack. To make the 2nd pitch go, he traversed back and forth on aid, pounding in pins to make some finger holds. He also, supposedly, tried to create a few footholds as well, but, whatever is down there isn't very good. I am not sure how you protect the traverse. The third pitch is a fun 5.10a, or so, lieback up a dark colored wall which is actually the final pitch of Twilight Zone. Descend by walking off to the left. Jun 19, 2014

Reed Gustavsen Van Life, USA   5.10

[Hide Comment] first pitch is a total solid 5.10! great fun fingers down low and most beautiful hands up high. single rack will do with an extra #2 BD cam.. nuts not really needed. fixed alien 10 feet below P1 anchors. maybe lead it twice, too good to rush! Jan 28, 2015

Ben Horton Los Angeles, CA

[Hide Comment] On lead, it felt pretty pumpy, mostly just because it's sustained. If you like to have gear every 10 feet, take lots of #2's and 2 #3's. (Save them for higher up) To me, the "crux" was the middle third of the climb where it's supposed to be easier, but I have giant hands and wasn't getting hand jams until the top 10 feet. (I can hand jam #3's) On TR, I realized that I was overly stressed on my onsight attempt because I was out of gear... it's all 10a moves, but a LOT of them. The sustained nature of the climb makes it 10b in my book. Jun 26, 2017

blue ribbon Indian Creek, UT

[Hide Comment] No sense in stopping at the first anchor, that's where it just starts to get good. Continue up the thin hands splitter on sticky rock and go left at the top for a well protected and fun couple of moves to the chainz. Oct 5, 2017

King Tut Citrus Heights

[Hide Comment] Barry Bates tells the story how he was invited to do this FA with Bridwell...said it looked too dirty lol. But Barry bagged some classics. :) Jan 5, 2018

master gumby

[Hide Comment] if you like #2's and #3's this climb is for you. I am a shit climber but didnt think a four or any extra gear outside of doubles from #1 to 3 and a few smaller pieces were necessary. Oct 23, 2018

Austin Donisan San Mateo, CA

[Hide Comment] Traversing left to an anchor after P2 felt only 10b-ish. From this anchor an 80m just reaches for a TR. Oct 20, 2019

Andrew Upchurch Yosemite, CA   5.10c

[Hide Comment] This is a definite pumpfest for those with smaller hands! Nov 6, 2019

Miguel Castro socal

[Hide Comment] This route is AWESOME!!! A must do if youre climbing 5.10!!!!! Aug 14, 2020

Peter B Austin, TX

[Hide Comment] Continuing left on into Orangutan Arch is a good but difficult finish. Classic! Apr 12, 2021

Alexander Blum Livermore, CA

[Hide Comment] pitch two is fun, worth doing, and the traverse protects very well. Oct 12, 2021

Avery Lieu Salt Lake City, UT 5.11a

[Hide Comment] I think the 5.10c grade comes from traversing right on p2? Felt very tough at the grade… Everything prior felt 5.10-. Oct 28, 2022

Sam Rode

[Hide Comment] Climbed left at the P2 roof to bolts (the true route goes right here) then out the roof that continues hard left from there. Anybody know the name of that route? If it got cleaned up (the feet are all exfoliating, could really use some time with a wire brush) it would be a pretty rad pitch. Sep 9, 2025

Alexey Zelditch San Jose

[Hide Comment] @Sam Rode: Orangutan Arch T 5.11b Sep 9, 2025