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Routes in The Cookie Cliff

Aftershock T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
America's Cup T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Anathema T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beverly's Tower T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Butterballs T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Butterfingers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Catchy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Catchy Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chicken Delight TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chips Ahoy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cleft, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cookie Left Side T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cookie Monster S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cookie-Center, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cookie-Right, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack-a-Go-Go T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Dynamite Crack V0+ 4+
Elevator Shaft, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Enema, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Enigma, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hardd T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Jardine's Hand T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Meat Grinder T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Outer Limits T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pringles S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Red Zinger T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Renegade, The T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Stigma, The T A3
Tennessee Strings T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Twilight Zone T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Twinkie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vendetta T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Waverly Wafer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wheat Thin T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Kim Carrigan and Geoff Weigand, 1985
Page Views: 2,027 total · 29/month
Shared By: Luke Stefurak on Feb 3, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

This route climbs the zig-zaging crack just to the left of Red Zinger. Start on the face 10 feet to the left of Zinger, below a bolt. Easy moves to the bolt segue to a short face climbing boulder problem that can be done two ways. The sharp crimps allow passage to a finger crack and some more moderate climbing.

Clip a piton and embark on a series of insecure slaps up a "rail" feature. (The piton can be be backed up with a #1 a few feet below)
Micro cams can be pre-placed along the rail, but I don't think you could get them in on lead.
Once you have made it to the end of the rail a few more hard moves are required to stand up to a wide hand crack.

The crack often pinches out and requires a few more tricky sequences. Overall the climbing eases to 5.11- and you get to enjoy a variety of sizes from 2" on down.

The place to stop the first pitch is unclear with a poor slung block at about 140'. Alternately when you are at the height of the Red Zinger anchor you can face climb across (4 feet to the right) if only doing the first pitch. The second pitch finishes at the upper Meat Grinder anchor and has a few tricky sections but nothing harder than 5.10+ .

Location

This route is on the same tier as Meat Grinder and Red Zinger. It is the first line to the left of Zinger.

You can get down from the Red Zinger anchor with one rope or do two rappels if you do the second pitch (or lead it in one mega pitch).

Protection

Heavy on small cams for pitch one with up to 4x Blue Alien size and 2-3x of Black Alien. From there doubles to #1 with a #2 and #3 camalot.

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Brian Prince
morro bay, ca
 
Brian Prince   morro bay, ca
 
Shade is basically mandatory on this thing. wait til the afternoon for it. the pin has "been driven to Hetch Hetchy" so you can feel good about going for it. awesome and unique route. stopping at zinger makes the most sense. 7 days ago

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