Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: Tony Yaniro and Max Jones, 1981
Page Views: 1,648 total · 18/month
Shared By: claytown on Jun 10, 2011
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

This route is immediately right of Beverly's Tower and arrives at the same two bolt anchor with chains. Start down and right of Beverly's with the rightward traverse to gain the left angling dihedral. There is also a vert finger crack that allows you to skip the start of the hanging dihedral and make the rope wander less. Lots of face features keep it relatively easy until the roof up top. Once you get your feet above the roof it's over.

Location

Immediately right of Beverly's Tower and arrives at the same anchors.

Protection

Gear is mainly finger sized pieces. A standard double rack up to .75 camalot + single #1, #2, #3 should suffice. Maybe 3 - 4 of .5 camalot / red alien / grey alien size as you can use one on the traverse, one in the dihedral and at least one for the final moves. The #3 would go in on the initial traverse. Otherwise don't bring it. Could skip the #2 also probably.

Photos

FA: Tony Yaniro, Max Jones, 1981 Jan 7, 2012
eric schweitzer
Bend, Oregon
eric schweitzer   Bend, Oregon
Thought i'd grease the cogs on the old rumor machine: supposedly, somebody died on this route...watch out for ghosts up there! Dec 11, 2012
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
I wouldn't say it's "over" once you get your feet above the roof. Rope drag and pump factor kept me fighting up the final moves of baggy fingers and thin hands before the anchor.

Combined with Butterballs and Butterfingers, this is Nabisco Wall the hard way. Apr 7, 2013
King Tut
Citrus Heights
King Tut   Citrus Heights
"Thought i'd grease the cogs on the old rumor machine: supposedly, somebody died on this route...watch out for ghosts up there!"

No rumor. Joe Palmer was killed on this route in the early 80's zippering the nuts on the pitch and hitting the belay ledge from the crux. Met him once, he was a good friend to other friends in the Valley. Jun 25, 2017