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Routes in 10 - The Cookie Cliff

Aftershock T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
America's Cup T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Anathema T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beverly's Tower T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Butterballs T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Butterfingers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Catchy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Catchy Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chicken Delight TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chips Ahoy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cleft, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cookie Left Side T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cookie Monster S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cookie-Center, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cookie-Right, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack-a-Go-Go T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Dynamite Crack V0+ 4+
Elevator Shaft, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Enema, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Enigma, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hardd T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Jardine's Hand T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Meat Grinder T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Outer Limits T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pringles S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Red Zinger T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Renegade, The T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Stigma, The T A3
Tennessee Strings T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Twilight Zone T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Twinkie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vendetta T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Waverly Wafer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wheat Thin T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: Tony Yaniro and Max Jones, 1981
Page Views: 1,549 total · 19/month
Shared By: claytown on Jun 10, 2011
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15 Details

Description

This route is immediately right of Beverly's Tower and arrives at the same two bolt anchor with chains. Start down and right of Beverly's with the rightward traverse to gain the left angling dihedral. There is also a vert finger crack that allows you to skip the start of the hanging dihedral and make the rope wander less. Lots of face features keep it relatively easy until the roof up top. Once you get your feet above the roof it's over.

Location

Immediately right of Beverly's Tower and arrives at the same anchors.

Protection

Gear is mainly finger sized pieces. A standard double rack up to .75 camalot + single #1, #2, #3 should suffice. Maybe 3 - 4 of .5 camalot / red alien / grey alien size as you can use one on the traverse, one in the dihedral and at least one for the final moves. The #3 would go in on the initial traverse. Otherwise don't bring it. Could skip the #2 also probably.

Photos

FA: Tony Yaniro, Max Jones, 1981 Jan 7, 2012
eric schweitzer
Bend, Oregon
eric schweitzer   Bend, Oregon
Thought i'd grease the cogs on the old rumor machine: supposedly, somebody died on this route...watch out for ghosts up there! Dec 11, 2012
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
I wouldn't say it's "over" once you get your feet above the roof. Rope drag and pump factor kept me fighting up the final moves of baggy fingers and thin hands before the anchor.

Combined with Butterballs and Butterfingers, this is Nabisco Wall the hard way. Apr 7, 2013
King Tut
Citrus Heights
King Tut   Citrus Heights
"Thought i'd grease the cogs on the old rumor machine: supposedly, somebody died on this route...watch out for ghosts up there!"

No rumor. Joe Palmer was killed on this route in the early 80's zippering the nuts on the pitch and hitting the belay ledge from the crux. Met him once, he was a good friend to other friends in the Valley. Jun 25, 2017

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