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Routes in 10 - The Cookie Cliff

Aftershock T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
America's Cup T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Anathema T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beverly's Tower T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Butterballs T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Butterfingers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Catchy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Catchy Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chicken Delight TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cleft, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cookie Left Side T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cookie Monster S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cookie-Center, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cookie-Right, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack-a-Go-Go T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Dynamite Crack V0+ 4+
Elevator Shaft, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Enema, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Enigma, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hardd T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Jardine's Hand T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Meat Grinder T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Outer Limits T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pringles S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Red Zinger T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Renegade, The T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Stigma, The T A3
Twilight Zone T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Twinkie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vendetta T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Waverly Wafer T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wheat Thin T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 5 pitches
FA: FA: Loyde Price and Rodger Gordon FFA Royal Robbins and Galen Rowel
Page Views: 4,181 total, 40/month
Shared By: Alexey on Mar 30, 2009
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This route has two stellar classic pitches(P1 and P2) clean and superb quality rock. After that rock quality deteriorate significantly. A lot of loose and unstable rock in upper part of this climb.
P1: Start on pedestal 15 feet left from Anathema . Tight hands (10a) quickly become wide hands - and than 25 feet of 5.7 secure but unprotected chimney. ~80feet - hanging belay in hand size crack above the rappel slings. You can just do first pitch and rappel down.

P2: 80 feet 5" offset splitter OW almost all the way . This pitch should have 5 stars out of 5. Starts with short 6" (#6Friend) leaning crack which after 10 feet become straight vertical 5" (#5Camelot sise)
You can walk up #5 Camelots easily all the way. Plus you have one piton about 30 feet up from the start and you can place some small gear ~1" .
I climbed this pitch left side in all the way. And it works fine. The left knee almost all the way in.
My wife followed same way. I am curious - anybody climbed this thing as right side in or straight in?
Gear for P2 in order of appearance: #6 Friend, #5 Friend, #0.75 camelot, piton, #4 camelot, #5 camelot, #5 camelot.
Hanging Belay in alcove with small pro ( green/red aliens)

P3. Exit from alcove - 5 feet horizontal traverse ( 10a) left to reach vertical vertical thin hands crack. This short traverse it was wet and hard. Thin hands crack is easy and rock quality is quickly deteriorate. Climb to the small trees with old slings. ~80 feet. Now you at the same level as top of Catchy Corner. You can double rope rappel to the top of Vendetta P1 . If you do so- add some webbing to the tree.

p4. class 4 ramp to the base of p5. loose rock, dirts, slippery- we did it as simulclimb with some pro.

P5. Tree options:
a. Intimidating 10c OW in Left corner with overhanging exit to the top. looks mach harder ( did not try)
b. Thin hands crack exit 10-
Looks OK, but in the very end on top of this crack huge dead tree brunch is ready to fall on you and your belayer ( did not try)
c. Easiest- right most exit wide hands 5.9 - what we did

Next time I''l bring two ropes and rappel from P3

Location

Climb starts between Cookie Right and Anathema

Protection

double from green alien to #5 Camalot + #6 Friend

Photos

Alexey
San Jose
 
Alexey   San Jose
 
try to do it at day light..
By the end of p2/3 the crack just kept getting narrover and narrover ;-) Dec 13, 2015
Michael Dom  
 
I did the first pitch at night and was spooked at the way the crack just kept getting wider and wider! Dec 13, 2015
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
 
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
 
Yeah, I did that last left hand pitch several years back. I remember the gritty rock, the burrowing your way through piles of leaves and dirt and stemming on kitty litter and oak leaves to claw your way to the top. Except at that time there was a rather large oak tree precariously perched over the top you had to crawl under.

I was not laughing!

Donini mentioned doing the first accent with fond memories on Supertopo a while back. That's when I realized, "that guys loosing it!" ;) Apr 28, 2015
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
 
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
 
I did the left hand corner (early 80's) OW thingy for the last pitch. It was sorta hard, dirty and I recall a big wiggly vertical flake inside the crack that you could pinch instead of jamming. All in all not that pleasant and right at the top seemed like the crux scooping leaves and dirt off the summit trying to top out. Fuzzy memory says you move right at the very top and at some point I was stemming and groveling trying to get the last few feet.

After getting back down to Camp 4 I went and asked Klemmens about the route and which way they went.... he says, "you guys did that thing???..... probably the second ascent.... nobody does that last pitch!" Then he started laughing..... . Apr 27, 2015
Vendetta p2 var. FA: Urmas Franosch, mid 1980s
Vendetta p5 left var. FA: Jim Donini, Mark Chapman, 1973 Jan 7, 2012
Great climb! I loved the first 2 pitches and the third would be great also if it were clean.

P1- protects all the way to the anchor. (2 #4 friends or 3.5 Camalots protect the chimney)

From the top of p3 we rapped to the base of Anathema w/2 60m ropes Dec 6, 2011
David Aguasca!
New York
 
David Aguasca!   New York
 
I climbed the crux pitch left side in the whole way as well; secure leavittation the whole way (minus the easy initial 6" crack). If I did it again I would also rap after P3...the rest is super dirty and a real letdown after the rock quality on P1 an P2. If I could I would rap after P2, but there is no anchor in the alcove.

I would take singles from purple TCU/blue alien to 4 camalot, with doubles from .75 to 3. Triples #5, no #6...it's a pain to carry for what is relatively easy OW climbing. Oct 3, 2010