Avg: 3.1 from 22 votes
|Type:||Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 5 pitches|
|FA:||FA: Loyde Price and Rodger Gordon FFA Royal Robbins and Galen Rowel|
|Page Views:||5,476 total · 36/month|
|Shared By:||Alexey Zelditch on Mar 30, 2009|
|Admins:||Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen|
Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15.
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
P1: Start on pedestal 15 feet left from Anathema . Tight hands (10a) quickly become wide hands - and than 25 feet of 5.7 secure but unprotected chimney. ~80feet - hanging belay in hand size crack above the rappel slings. You can just do first pitch and rappel down.
P2: 80 feet 5" offset splitter OW almost all the way . This pitch should have 5 stars out of 5. Starts with short 6" (#6Friend) leaning crack which after 10 feet become straight vertical 5" (#5Camelot sise)
You can walk up #5 Camelots easily all the way. Plus you have one piton about 30 feet up from the start and you can place some small gear ~1" .
I climbed this pitch left side in all the way. And it works fine. The left knee almost all the way in.
My wife followed same way. I am curious - anybody climbed this thing as right side in or straight in?
Gear for P2 in order of appearance: #6 Friend, #5 Friend, #0.75 camelot, piton, #4 camelot, #5 camelot, #5 camelot.
Hanging Belay in alcove with small pro ( green/red aliens)
P3. Exit from alcove - 5 feet horizontal traverse ( 10a) left to reach vertical vertical thin hands crack. This short traverse it was wet and hard. Thin hands crack is easy and rock quality is quickly deteriorate. Climb to the small trees with old slings. ~80 feet. Now you at the same level as top of Catchy Corner. You can double rope rappel to the top of Vendetta P1 . If you do so- add some webbing to the tree.
p4. class 4 ramp to the base of p5. loose rock, dirts, slippery- we did it as simulclimb with some pro.
P5. Tree options:
a. Intimidating 10c OW in Left corner with overhanging exit to the top. looks mach harder ( did not try)
b. Thin hands crack exit 10-
Looks OK, but in the very end on top of this crack huge dead tree brunch is ready to fall on you and your belayer ( did not try)
c. Easiest- right most exit wide hands 5.9 - what we did
Next time I''l bring two ropes and rappel from P3