Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Peter Hahn and Jim Bridwell, 1971
Page Views: 14,550 total · 75/month
Shared By: Nate Weitzel on Oct 9, 2006
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski

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Access Issue: Latest updates on Covid and falcon closures. Details

Description

This route is a fun pitch that starts on the right side of the ledge gained after climbing Beverly's Tower. Start up toward the obvious large flake, the technical crux comes before reaching the bolts, so bring some small cams for the initial moves, which work out better than you think. Gain the huge flake and lieback your way to the top. The book calls this "very airy", and I would agree wholeheartedly. Expect some runouts b\w bolts. Finish with a traverse to the bolted anchors above Butterballs.

Location

Right side of large ledge in the middle of cookie cliff. From the finish of Beverly's tower you will need to make a spicy traverse down and right across a small gap to gain the anchors below Wheat Thin and Butterballs.

Protection

Few small cams or nuts and quickdraws.

Photos