Type: Trad, 85 ft (26 m)
FA: Jim Bridwell, Barry Bates & Beverly Johnson 10/70
Page Views: 9,866 total · 61/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Jul 12, 2007
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Latest updates on Covid and 2020 visits. Details

Description

By far, the most classic way to start up the Nabisco Wall!

Get stoked and jam a mellow gold/blue Camalot-sized crack, taking advantage of face holds and stems...Enter the flare pod (#4 C4 Camalot)...If you've been right-side in and got spanked at the top of the pod, then next time try the secret beta of going left-side in...Use good technique or you may still get spanked-hard by the flare but you'll be set up to jam the green Camalot size splitter to the top. A hard size for most anyone to straight-in jam...Get layed and pump it up to the hand jams and then the bolted anchor below B-u-t-t-e-r-b-a-l-l-s.

Location

Scramble right under Bev's Tower across and up flakes and past a tree to the very base of the big left facing corner and belay...OR...Rope up way lower on a big grassy ledge and lieback up a big flake to the same spot.

Protection

Red Alien size to doubles of green Camalot to #4 Camalot sizes.

Photos