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Routes in 10 - The Cookie Cliff

Aftershock T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
America's Cup T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Anathema T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beverly's Tower T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Butterballs T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Butterfingers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Catchy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Catchy Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chicken Delight TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chips Ahoy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cleft, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cookie Left Side T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cookie Monster S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cookie-Center, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cookie-Right, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack-a-Go-Go T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Dynamite Crack V0+ 4+
Elevator Shaft, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Enema, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Enigma, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hardd T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Jardine's Hand T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Meat Grinder T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Outer Limits T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pringles S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Red Zinger T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Renegade, The T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Stigma, The T A3
Tennessee Strings T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Twilight Zone T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Twinkie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vendetta T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Waverly Wafer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wheat Thin T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: Jim Bridwell, Barry Bates & Beverly Johnson 10/70
Page Views: 7,936 total · 59/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Jul 12, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15 Details

Description

By far, the most classic way to start up the Nabisco Wall!

Get stoked and jam a mellow gold/blue Camalot-sized crack, taking advantage of face holds and stems...Enter the flare pod (#4 C4 Camalot)...If you've been right-side in and got spanked at the top of the pod, then next time try the secret beta of going left-side in...Use good technique or you may still get spanked-hard by the flare but you'll be set up to jam the green Camalot size splitter to the top. A hard size for most anyone to straight-in jam...Get layed and pump it up to the hand jams and then the bolted anchor below B-u-t-t-e-r-b-a-l-l-s.

Location

Scramble right under Bev's Tower across and up flakes and past a tree to the very base of the big left facing corner and belay...OR...Rope up way lower on a big grassy ledge and lieback up a big flake to the same spot.

Protection

Red Alien size to doubles of green Camalot to #4 Camalot sizes.

Photos

This was my first 10c in the Valley - should have gotten on an easy one like Lunatic Fringe!

This route was the first time I can remember blowing a piece of pro - a small hex placed like a stopper on a micro-feature (crack was way too parallel to even think it should hold). And I started climbing mid-'90s, the hex was just because my small rack of cams included a single correct size piece above the flare (and no piece for the flare of course, the "big" cam was hand-size). Dec 10, 2009
G.McCay
Galloway, NJ
  5.10c/d
G.McCay   Galloway, NJ
  5.10c/d
Wow, what a blast from the past! All I can claim on this one was that I followed a guy in the Navy, who was really strong, back in 1983? I was partnerless and his partner for the day didn't show so he recruited me to follow him on Waverly down in the Camp 4 parking lot. I was two years into climbing myself and was stoked to get a chance to get this exposure!

After getting spooked on the 3-4 class approach, across some grassy ledges, I assumed the position and belayed this guy while he ran it out every 30 or so feet between pieces. I saw the first piece thirty feet up but actually saw that he did this pretty much the entire pitch once I started cleaning!

Yep, I too was spanked by the time I reached the last thirty feet of tips laybacking and had to be, basically, yarded up between every move for my forearms were useless! So useless in fact that he had to untie the rope from my harness once I reached the belay, lol (his partner showed up in the interim so he had to free the rope up in order to throw the rope down to him)! Their original plan was to do Butterballs above, so I sat there, tied off atop Beverly's Tower to decompress while his partner lead the next pitch. I was in no condition, nor with the experience to be following on this next section so I was lowered to get back to terra firma.

The lowering was uneventful until the last fifteen feet or so. With 45 meter (150') ropes the norm back then this proposed a problem. I dangled there for a bit, while something was arranged above (I didn't want to know). Eventually, I began to bounce the last five meters to thankfully gain the belay ledge.

Cool memories! Jul 21, 2010
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
 
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
 
In the Sierra Club's mountaineering journal, Ascent, 1973, Jim Bridwell proposed the use of "letter grades". He included a list; Yosemite Free Climb Compared. Only two routes where given as examples of 5.10c liebacks; Waverly Wafer and Powell-Reed. Jan 31, 2011
Colin Brochard
Austin
  5.11a
Colin Brochard   Austin
  5.11a
upgraded to 11a in the latest guide, rightfully so I think, that off-fingers lieback is rounded and suuper pumpy. Feb 7, 2011
Nick Sullens
Yosemite
  5.11-
Nick Sullens   Yosemite
  5.11-
Hard for 10c :) Good fun though. Jul 11, 2012
When I led this it did take more than half my 70 meter rope, but you can still rappel with one rope because there are some lower rap anchors on a sport climb on the face to the right of this route. Oct 3, 2017
Michael Dom  
 
Doubles from .4 black diamond to #3 and a single #4 was great for protecting it. Maybe an extra .4 or .5 if you want to sew it up. Oct 6, 2017

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