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Routes in Mosaic Rock
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Areted Development T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Baby Cakes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Better Red Than Dead T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Bienvenidos T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Black Cornflakes S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Black Streak T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bleeds No More T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Brother Shawn and Sister Beth T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Chicken Heads T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Chicken Shit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Clean Green Dream T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cryin' in the Rain T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dirty Black Nightmare T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Dirty Diagonal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Doctor Yousuf's Gang S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dung Alley T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fine Little Line S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Five Years After T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Forever and a Day T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fried Chickens T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Holthouse In A Haulbag T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Holthouse to Hell T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Jug or Not S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mama Jugs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Mamma Gnamma T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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MSMACITU (Matt Samet, Most Awesome Climber In The Universe) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Ocho Diamentes (Tech-No-Star) S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rite of Summer Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Safety First T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R |
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Seaman Girl T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Serpent Face T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Serpentine Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Summer Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Suprise-Suprise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Techtonics T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Techweenie S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Threshold S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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To Bolt on Lead or Not to Bolt (TBOL) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Toothy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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True Colors S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Unknown T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Unknown S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Unknown (Left of Baby Cakes) T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Walking Dread T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | ?? |
| Page Views: | 6,182 total · 31/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Wenker on Jun 2, 2008 |
| Admins: | Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Seasonal Raptor Nesting.
Details
The remainder are on US Forest Service land. A map detailing the public areas can be obtained from the ranger station en route to the rocks from the village of Tres Piedras.
According to Jan Studebaker: "The property line mountainproject.com/v/new_m… runs from approximately the current east corner by the access gate in a straight line over the top of South Rock to the top middle of the Chicken Heads/Mosaic Wall mount, and from there west down the mount slope to the meadow just south of the Alley climbs. Some of the most popular routes are completely on private property. There are survey markers on the top of South rock (the mysterious aluminum stake stuck in the rock) and on top of the Mosaic rock (most of the time buried in water in a pot hole.)"
An online Tres Piedras Route Guide lamountaineers.org/Tres_Pie… from LA Mountaineers has been updated with the latest access information, and should be read by all Tres Piedras climbers. Group climb leaders, and Climbing Directors (future or past) should take particular note.
The landowner requests NO fires, no trash, no chalk and "please close any gates". Basically, be a good steward of the land.
In order to nurture greater landowner acceptance of climbers, participants of group climbs are requested to organize quick clean up activities before leaving the area; this should include the climbing area as well as the access roads (trip leaders could supply plastic grocery bags). Small parties should practice "leave no trace" principles.
Seasonal Raptor Nesting:
This climbing area is shared with raptors that nest on the cliffs. Help us maintain access and please avoid climbing near active nests/ledges that raptors are using. If a raptor is disturbed during nesting season it may exhibit aggressive defensive behaviors like vocalizing or dive-bombing. If you witness this behavior, retreat from your climb immediately and find a location on a different formation or a different part of the wall far enough away from the raptors that they are no longer noticeably agitated. If they remain agitated, then please leave the area immediately.
Raptor awareness is especially important during nesting season from mid-February to late May but needs to be considered through the end of August. Please report disturbed and/or nesting raptors to the Carson National Forest the appropriate district office (see below) and share relevant information here on MP. Human-raptor encounters can have negative impacts for the birds and climbers in the area. The Cason NF wants to maintain climbing access while protecting raptor reproduction and relies on climbers to recreate responsibly and share information in order to avoid the need for formal raptor closures.
Questa Ranger District
(575) 586-0520
Camino Real (Comales Canyon) Ranger District
(575) 587-2255
Tres Piedras Ranger District
(575) 758-8678
El Rito Ranger District
(575) 581-4554
According to Jan Studebaker: "The property line mountainproject.com/v/new_m… runs from approximately the current east corner by the access gate in a straight line over the top of South Rock to the top middle of the Chicken Heads/Mosaic Wall mount, and from there west down the mount slope to the meadow just south of the Alley climbs. Some of the most popular routes are completely on private property. There are survey markers on the top of South rock (the mysterious aluminum stake stuck in the rock) and on top of the Mosaic rock (most of the time buried in water in a pot hole.)"
An online Tres Piedras Route Guide lamountaineers.org/Tres_Pie… from LA Mountaineers has been updated with the latest access information, and should be read by all Tres Piedras climbers. Group climb leaders, and Climbing Directors (future or past) should take particular note.
The landowner requests NO fires, no trash, no chalk and "please close any gates". Basically, be a good steward of the land.
In order to nurture greater landowner acceptance of climbers, participants of group climbs are requested to organize quick clean up activities before leaving the area; this should include the climbing area as well as the access roads (trip leaders could supply plastic grocery bags). Small parties should practice "leave no trace" principles.
Seasonal Raptor Nesting:
This climbing area is shared with raptors that nest on the cliffs. Help us maintain access and please avoid climbing near active nests/ledges that raptors are using. If a raptor is disturbed during nesting season it may exhibit aggressive defensive behaviors like vocalizing or dive-bombing. If you witness this behavior, retreat from your climb immediately and find a location on a different formation or a different part of the wall far enough away from the raptors that they are no longer noticeably agitated. If they remain agitated, then please leave the area immediately.
Raptor awareness is especially important during nesting season from mid-February to late May but needs to be considered through the end of August. Please report disturbed and/or nesting raptors to the Carson National Forest the appropriate district office (see below) and share relevant information here on MP. Human-raptor encounters can have negative impacts for the birds and climbers in the area. The Cason NF wants to maintain climbing access while protecting raptor reproduction and relies on climbers to recreate responsibly and share information in order to avoid the need for formal raptor closures.
Questa Ranger District
(575) 586-0520
Camino Real (Comales Canyon) Ranger District
(575) 587-2255
Tres Piedras Ranger District
(575) 758-8678
El Rito Ranger District
(575) 581-4554
Description
This route ascends the obvious sinuous crack near the center of the south side of Mosaic Rock. The crack starts out as sort of a deeply recessed off-width; as the crack narrows, climb it, as well as the platey face left of the crack, using the cleft for protection. At the top of the crack (ca. 105 feet up) is a nice ledge on the left (where, as Jackson notes, "a controversial set of shiny fixed anchors has recently appeared").
If you rap off from this point, a single 60m rope will take you down to just about 5 feet above the ground, where you land on the gently sloping rock apron, so watch the rope ends!
Above the ledge, you're out of the crack; a short face takes you to a horizontal seam; traverse right and then up onto easier ground -- some people have finished Chicken Heads this way also.
If you intend to climb the entire route (and not bail at the bolted anchor), it's not worth the time to split it into two pitches at that anchor. Better to do the whole thing as one pitch, but it will be a rope-stretcher with a 60m.
This route is described and illustrated by Foley (2005:78-79) and Jackson (2006:67-68). This is also probably the same as the two-pitch climb named "Thin at the Top" in the 1981 guide. In the 1984 "Tao's Rock II" guide, this crack is plotted on the overview map and is labeled with its current name, but no route description is provided. It is described in the 1991 "Taos Rock III" guide.
If you rap off from this point, a single 60m rope will take you down to just about 5 feet above the ground, where you land on the gently sloping rock apron, so watch the rope ends!
Above the ledge, you're out of the crack; a short face takes you to a horizontal seam; traverse right and then up onto easier ground -- some people have finished Chicken Heads this way also.
If you intend to climb the entire route (and not bail at the bolted anchor), it's not worth the time to split it into two pitches at that anchor. Better to do the whole thing as one pitch, but it will be a rope-stretcher with a 60m.
This route is described and illustrated by Foley (2005:78-79) and Jackson (2006:67-68). This is also probably the same as the two-pitch climb named "Thin at the Top" in the 1981 guide. In the 1984 "Tao's Rock II" guide, this crack is plotted on the overview map and is labeled with its current name, but no route description is provided. It is described in the 1991 "Taos Rock III" guide.
Location
The usual approach from the parking lot to the south side of Mosaic Rock puts you in the vicinity of Chicken Heads; from there, walk right (east) for about 75 more feet to this climb; if you start climbing up the hill around the southeast side of the rock you're too far.
Protection
Single set of cams and nuts.
Build a gear anchor anywhere you like on or near the top of the formation (the prominent grassy ledge is good, or you might make it to the next good ledge past that). Walk off the top to the east.
Although you can rap off the fixed anchors at mid-route with a 60m rope, you probably can't easily toprope the crack off of those bolts, because the rope ends are just above the ground, and the base of the climb is a good ways off to the right of the anchors' plumb line (maybe you could TR with a 70m rope, though).
Build a gear anchor anywhere you like on or near the top of the formation (the prominent grassy ledge is good, or you might make it to the next good ledge past that). Walk off the top to the east.
Although you can rap off the fixed anchors at mid-route with a 60m rope, you probably can't easily toprope the crack off of those bolts, because the rope ends are just above the ground, and the base of the climb is a good ways off to the right of the anchors' plumb line (maybe you could TR with a 70m rope, though).
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