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Routes in Mosaic Rock

Baby Cakes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Better Red Than Dead T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Bienvenidos T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Black Streak T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chicken Heads T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chicken Shit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Clean Green Dream T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cryin' in the Rain T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Black Nightmare T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dirty Diagonal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dung Alley T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fine Little Line S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Five Years After T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Fried Chickens T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Holthouse In A Haulbag T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Holthouse to Hell T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jug or Not S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Mama Jugs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Ocho Diamentes (Tech-No-Star) S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rite of Summer Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seaman Girl T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Serpent Face T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Serpentine Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Summer Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Suprise-Suprise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Techtonics T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Techweenie S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Threshold S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
To Bolt on Lead or Not to Bolt (TBOL) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Unknown (Left of Baby Cakes) T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown (Right of Mama Jugs) T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Walking Dread T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: ??
Page Views: 3,447 total · 29/month
Shared By: Chris Wenker on Jun 2, 2008
Admins: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. Details

Description

This route ascends the obvious sinuous crack near the center of the south side of Mosaic Rock. The crack starts out as sort of a deeply recessed off-width; as the crack narrows, climb it, as well as the platey face left of the crack, using the cleft for protection. At the top of the crack (ca. 105 feet up) is a nice ledge on the left (where, as Jackson notes, "a controversial set of shiny fixed anchors has recently appeared").
If you rap off from this point, a single 60m rope will take you down to just about 5 feet above the ground, where you land on the gently sloping rock apron, so watch the rope ends!
Above the ledge, you're out of the crack; a short face takes you to a horizontal seam; traverse right and then up onto easier ground -- some people have finished Chicken Heads this way also.
If you intend to climb the entire route (and not bail at the bolted anchor), it's not worth the time to split it into two pitches at that anchor. Better to do the whole thing as one pitch, but it will be a rope-stretcher with a 60m.
This route is described and illustrated by Foley (2005:78-79) and Jackson (2006:67-68). This is also probably the same as the two-pitch climb named "Thin at the Top" in the 1981 guide. In the 1984 "Tao's Rock II" guide, this crack is plotted on the overview map and is labeled with its current name, but no route description is provided. It is described in the 1991 "Taos Rock III" guide.

Location

The usual approach from the parking lot to the south side of Mosaic Rock puts you in the vicinity of Chicken Heads; from there, walk right (east) for about 75 more feet to this climb; if you start climbing up the hill around the southeast side of the rock you're too far.

Protection

Single set of cams and nuts.
Build a gear anchor anywhere you like on or near the top of the formation (the prominent grassy ledge is good, or you might make it to the next good ledge past that). Walk off the top to the east.
Although you can rap off the fixed anchors at mid-route with a 60m rope, you probably can't easily toprope the crack off of those bolts, because the rope ends are just above the ground, and the base of the climb is a good ways off to the right of the anchors' plumb line (maybe you could TR with a 70m rope, though).
Only climbed the first pitch but found it to be very enjoyable. Lots of options for gear and a variety different moves used while following the winding crack. Nov 27, 2017
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.8
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.8
The crux is on the 2nd pitch, which is short. If you climb only to the anchor, and rap off, you miss the crux, but it is still a fun climb; and sets up one of the better beginner toprope climbs at TP. Watch the ends & extend the upper anchor with cordelette if toproping like this with a 60m rope. Better with a 70m, or belay from the anchor. Don't drop someone using a rope that's too short. Apr 25, 2010

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