Avg: 3.8 from 9 votes
|Type:||Trad, 220 ft (67 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||FA: Bruce Holthouse (ground-up rope solo aid), FFA: Dave Jones|
|Page Views:||3,022 total · 20/month|
|Shared By:||George Perkins on Aug 16, 2009|
|Admins:||Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
According to Jan Studebaker: "The property linemountainproject.com/v/new_m… runs from approximately the current east corner by the access gate in a straight line over the top of South Rock to the top middle of the Chicken Heads/Mosaic Wall mount, and from there west down the mount slope to the meadow just south of the Alley climbs. Some of the most popular routes are completely on private property. There are survey markers on the top of South rock (the mysterious aluminum stake stuck in the rock) and on top of the Mosaic rock (most of the time buried in water in a pot hole.)"
An online Tres Piedras Route Guidelamountaineers.org/Tres_Pie… from LA Mountaineers has been updated with the latest access information, and should be read by all Tres Piedras climbers. Group climb leaders, and Climbing Directors (future or past) should take particular note.
Access Notes: Tres Piedras climbers should sign the waiverlamountaineers.org/Tres_Pie… found on this page because the popular South Rock is mostly on private land, as is some of the access to the area. The landowner requests NO fires, no trash, no chalk and "please close any gates". Basically, be a good steward of the land.
In order to nurture greater landowner acceptance of climbers, participants of group climbs are requested to organize quick clean up activities before leaving the area; this should include the climbing area as well as the access roads (trip leaders could supply plastic grocery bags). Small parties should practice "leave no trace" principles.
The Direct Start (5.11) is recommended, it adds another challenging crux to the climb but the result is the most aesthetic line. Begin just right of Serpentine Crack, face climb past 2 bolts, and reach an easy runout. Or use the original start to reach this same section by traversing over from Serpentine Crack past a black bolt.
If you look carefully, you'll see 3 bolted lines that you could follow from either of these starts. Take the middle of the 3 lines, which is the most natural and obvious way to go, going pretty much straight up clipping new bolts. Pull through a roof, a crazy mantle onto a chickenhead, and through another roof to more classic TP slabbing. Up high, there are a few options; route find the easiest way to a ledge with small oak trees and belay. An short and easy, but poorly protected, 5.2 pitch finishes the climb (you can't get all the way to the top in a single pitch with a 60m rope).
The bolts are in great places to protect the hardest moves.
This section of cliff is confusing because the routes have different starting variations and split from one another, and both guidebooks have errors/omissions. Taos Rock shows this line as "Learn to Forget", and lists Holthouse to Hell as the line to its left. RC:NM shows this line correctly, but shows "Learn to Forget" as angling farther right and incorrectly lists it as 5.11- (and it also doesn't show the left bolted line). Based on the comment from Bruce Holthouse passed on by Mike below, I'm confident the line I describe here is Holthouse to Hell at least.