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Routes in Mosaic Rock

Baby Cakes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Better Red Than Dead T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Bienvenidos T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Black Streak T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chicken Heads T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chicken Shit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Clean Green Dream T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cryin' in the Rain T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Black Nightmare T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dirty Diagonal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dung Alley T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fine Little Line S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Five Years After T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Fried Chickens T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Holthouse In A Haulbag T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Holthouse to Hell T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jug or Not S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Mama Jugs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Ocho Diamentes (Tech-No-Star) S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rite of Summer Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seaman Girl T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Serpent Face T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Serpentine Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Summer Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Suprise-Suprise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Techtonics T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Techweenie S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Threshold S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
To Bolt on Lead or Not to Bolt (TBOL) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Unknown (Left of Baby Cakes) T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown (Right of Mama Jugs) T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Walking Dread T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Bruce Holthouse, 1979
Page Views: 4,840 total · 38/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Aug 15, 2007
Admins: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. Details

Description

Start atop a large block and make a few easy moves to clip a bolt, pull the roof (crux) and gain the crack. From here head up the flaring crack can clip a bolt to the left with a long sling. Before exiting the crack head right to a bolt you can't see from the ground. Continue angling right for the dike past another bolt. Head for the top passing occasional opportunities for pro.

Location

Between Walking Dread and Dirty Black Nightmare, shares start with Black Streak. Look for the low first bolt and roof leading to a 20 ft crack.

Protection

4 Bolts, Nuts & cams up to hand size, runners to avoid rope drag. Build a anchor at the top or belay from the rap bolts atop Bienvenidos. Descent can rap Beinvenidos with a single 60m or walkoff to east.

Photos

Casey Engstrom
Burnaby, BC
 
Casey Engstrom   Burnaby, BC
 
I mistakenly traversed too far right on the horizontal crack, ended up on a bolt for Walking Dread. After a short traverse on the horizontal, send a few run out but easy moves to the right facing flake/crack above you, cruise to top from there. Nov 12, 2016
Jack Lynch
Cascade, Idaho
 
Jack Lynch   Cascade, Idaho
 
If building an anchor, be aware that the best features are far enough up the face that an 80 meter rope is required. Otherwise the belay will need to precariously stand atop on the starting boulder as you descend. Sep 5, 2016
kboofis  
Not for the aspiring 5.9 leader. Tricky pro, ~15-20 foot runouts, and slab make this a great route, but I'd make sure I was confident at the grade. Oct 4, 2013
Jesse Morehouse
CO
  5.9
Jesse Morehouse   CO
  5.9
This was a really fun route. As I smeared that face leading past the last bolt I sure felt off route- no more bolts, no obvious pro but it ended up protecting surprisingly well. Just follow the features and it will all work out fine! Aug 26, 2013
Mike Howard    
 
Replaced crux bolt and hanger 11/10/09 with SS 3/8 Fixe 2x3/4 stud with Fixe hanger. Nov 11, 2009