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Clean Green Dream

5.9, Trad, 140 ft (42 m),  Avg: 3.4 from 60 votes
FA: Bruce Holthouse, 1979
New Mexico > Taos Area > Tres Piedras > Mosaic Rock
Warning Access Issue: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Also, this is a seasonal raptor nesting area. DetailsDrop down

Description

Start atop a large block and make a few easy moves to clip a bolt, pull the roof (crux) and gain the crack. From here head up the flaring crack can clip a bolt to the left with a long sling. Before exiting the crack head right to a bolt you can't see from the ground. Continue angling right for the dike past another bolt. Head for the top passing occasional opportunities for pro.

Location

Between Walking Dread and Dirty Black Nightmare, shares start with Black Streak. Look for the low first bolt and roof leading to a 20 ft crack.

Protection

4 Bolts, Nuts & cams up to hand size, runners to avoid rope drag. Build a anchor at the top or belay from the rap bolts atop Bienvenidos. Descent can rap Beinvenidos with a single 60m or walkoff to east.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Bruce Holthouse<br>
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Photo courtesy of andrewburr.com. All rights reserved.
[Hide Photo] Bruce Holthouse Photo courtesy of andrewburr.com. All rights reserved.
Bruce on the slab<br>
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Photo courtesy of andrewburr.com. All rights reserved.
[Hide Photo] Bruce on the slab Photo courtesy of andrewburr.com. All rights reserved.
Paul Wagener
[Hide Photo] Paul Wagener
Bruce Holthouse: High up on the dream.<br>
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Photo courtesy of andrewburr.com. All rights reserved.
[Hide Photo] Bruce Holthouse: High up on the dream. Photo courtesy of andrewburr.com. All rights reserved.
The opportunities for unique positioning and movement abound on the excellent <em>Clean Green Dream.</em> July 26, 2008.
[Hide Photo] The opportunities for unique positioning and movement abound on the excellent Clean Green Dream. July 26, 2008.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Replaced crux bolt and hanger 11/10/09 with SS 3/8 Fixe 2x3/4 stud with Fixe hanger. Nov 11, 2009
Jesse Morehouse
CO
  5.9
[Hide Comment] This was a really fun route. As I smeared that face leading past the last bolt I sure felt off route- no more bolts, no obvious pro but it ended up protecting surprisingly well. Just follow the features and it will all work out fine! Aug 26, 2013
[Hide Comment] Not for the aspiring 5.9 leader. Tricky pro, ~15-20 foot runouts, and slab make this a great route, but I'd make sure I was confident at the grade. Oct 4, 2013
Jack Lynch
Asheville, NC
 
[Hide Comment] If building an anchor, be aware that the best features are far enough up the face that an 80 meter rope is required. Otherwise the belay will need to precariously stand atop on the starting boulder as you descend. Sep 5, 2016
Casey Engstrom
Squamish, BC
 
[Hide Comment] I mistakenly traversed too far right on the horizontal crack, ended up on a bolt for Walking Dread. After a short traverse on the horizontal, send a few run out but easy moves to the right facing flake/crack above you, cruise to top from there. Nov 12, 2016
Hunter Kunkel
Salida, CO
 
[Hide Comment] I had no problem building a belay up top w/ a 70 meter rope. Jul 21, 2021