Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Doug Couleur, Lee Sheftel
Page Views: 712 total · 9/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Nov 24, 2012
Admins: Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. Details

Description

If you can ignore the ethical ideology in your face, this is a very cool line up the best wall at Tres Piedras. (I'm joking a little bit, and respect that this type of thing was a big deal when this climb was put up. As for myself, I'm much more concerned about climbing than I am about bolt ethics. Search the forums for the answers to that.) It is nearly as good as Techtonics and Techweenie to its right, climbs in a similar style to those routes, and maintains an independent line. Although it's given an "R" for protection in the guidebooks, I think its similar to Techtonics as far as headiness (you have to be willing to climb a bit more than usual above your last gear), and confident 5.11 leaders should give'r a go.

Go up thin edges and plates to a high 1st bolt. A hard move after the 2nd bolt gains an obvious flake. I wasn't so sure about gear in, or behind this flake, but you can get some pieces in a crack above it. At about the 3rd bolt, it looks like a blank face, going left, then up, then back right, is the way; don't get tempted to join Techtonics. The difficulty eases soon after the 4th bolt. While you're looking at the 4th and 2nd bolts, old buttonheads, and deciding whether to punch it to the next crack, remember that Couleur put those in on lead from hooks, as he on-sighted, which must have been pretty fun.

I traversed right to the anchor for Techtonics, but it might have been slightly easier to clean the route if I'd gone to the anchor for the new climb to the left.

Location

The left-most of the "Mosaic" climbs. Scramble up the gully as for the start of Dirty Diagonal, and choose the left-most line on the steep, beautiful face above. A key feature is the left-facing, really big, flake, after the first 2 bolts.

Protection

4 bolts, plus a light rack (I placed a couple finger-size cams, the biggest was a #0.75 camalot).

Use the anchor for Techtonics, or the new climb to the left.

Some of the bolts are not confidence-inspiring.

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