Avg: 3 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, 70 ft (21 m)|
|FA:||Doug Couleur, Lee Sheftel|
|Page Views:||1,091 total · 10/month|
|Shared By:||George Perkins on Nov 24, 2012|
|Admins:||Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
According to Jan Studebaker: "The property linemountainproject.com/v/new_m… runs from approximately the current east corner by the access gate in a straight line over the top of South Rock to the top middle of the Chicken Heads/Mosaic Wall mount, and from there west down the mount slope to the meadow just south of the Alley climbs. Some of the most popular routes are completely on private property. There are survey markers on the top of South rock (the mysterious aluminum stake stuck in the rock) and on top of the Mosaic rock (most of the time buried in water in a pot hole.)"
An online Tres Piedras Route Guidelamountaineers.org/Tres_Pie… from LA Mountaineers has been updated with the latest access information, and should be read by all Tres Piedras climbers. Group climb leaders, and Climbing Directors (future or past) should take particular note.
Access Notes: Tres Piedras climbers should sign the waiverlamountaineers.org/Tres_Pie… found on this page because the popular South Rock is mostly on private land, as is some of the access to the area. The landowner requests NO fires, no trash, no chalk and "please close any gates". Basically, be a good steward of the land.
In order to nurture greater landowner acceptance of climbers, participants of group climbs are requested to organize quick clean up activities before leaving the area; this should include the climbing area as well as the access roads (trip leaders could supply plastic grocery bags). Small parties should practice "leave no trace" principles.
Go up thin edges and plates to a high 1st bolt. A hard move after the 2nd bolt gains an obvious flake. I wasn't so sure about gear in, or behind this flake, but you can get some pieces in a crack above it. At about the 3rd bolt, it looks like a blank face, going left, then up, then back right, is the way; don't get tempted to join Techtonics. The difficulty eases soon after the 4th bolt. While you're looking at the 4th and 2nd bolts, old buttonheads, and deciding whether to punch it to the next crack, remember that Couleur put those in on lead from hooks, as he on-sighted, which must have been pretty fun.
I traversed right to the anchor for Techtonics, but it might have been slightly easier to clean the route if I'd gone to the anchor for the new climb to the left.