Type: Trad, 190 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,765 total · 33/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Sep 23, 2007
Admins: Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. Details

Description

This one is great. The line is somewhat confusing to follow (hopefully this helps). Mama Jugs does not have bolts, except for a 2-bolt anchor for toproping the bottom half of it (it helps if you find this before you start- the climb goes straight up to it).

Start up the scrambling slot approach to Dirty Diagonal and the "hardman Mosaic Wall Tech climbs". Walk left on the slab, left of a new 5.9+ sport climb, and belay here near a tiny pine bush (the left of the 2 tiny pine bushes you can see). (You can also get here by climbing directly up low angle slab just right of a tilted ponderosa tree). If you go too far left, you might see a bolt for Seaman Girl. It helps if you find the 2-bolt anchor at the top of the first pitch.

Climb straight up the alligator flakes, with creative pro and great moves to a 2-bolt anchor on a small ledge. Lower off if you have a good reason, or climb the 2nd pitch for full value.

For the 2nd pitch, move right off the belay into a left-facing corner. Climb this corner, step right then fire straight up over the giant chickenhead on the skyline. Build a belay up on top of the dome.

The 2 pitches can be linked with a 60m rope, if you pay attention to rope drag.

Topping out is recommended, at least once, since you get to explore the summit area of Tres Piedras's biggest rock on the traverse to the descent off the east side.

Location

Toward the left side of the S face of Mosaic Rock, identify the smaller and left-most of 2 pine trees just left of the exquisite and steep Mosaic Wall, above low slabs. Mama Jugs proceeds up from here.

To descend: 3rd class walkoff to the east.

Protection

Cams and nuts to 3", RPs helpful.

Photos