Type: Trad, 190 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,497 total · 33/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Sep 23, 2007
Admins: Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. Details


This one is great. The line is somewhat confusing to follow (hopefully this helps). Mama Jugs does not have bolts, except for a 2-bolt anchor for toproping the bottom half of it (it helps if you find this before you start- the climb goes straight up to it).

Start up the scrambling slot approach to Dirty Diagonal and the "hardman Mosaic Wall Tech climbs". Walk left on the slab, left of a new 5.9+ sport climb, and belay here near a tiny pine bush (the left of the 2 tiny pine bushes you can see). (You can also get here by climbing directly up low angle slab just right of a tilted ponderosa tree). If you go too far left, you might see a bolt for Seaman Girl. It helps if you find the 2-bolt anchor at the top of the first pitch.

Climb straight up the alligator flakes, with creative pro and great moves to a 2-bolt anchor on a small ledge. Lower off if you have a good reason, or climb the 2nd pitch for full value.

For the 2nd pitch, move right off the belay into a left-facing corner. Climb this corner, step right then fire straight up over the giant chickenhead on the skyline. Build a belay up on top of the dome.

The 2 pitches can be linked with a 60m rope, if you pay attention to rope drag.

Topping out is recommended, at least once, since you get to explore the summit area of Tres Piedras's biggest rock on the traverse to the descent off the east side.


Toward the left side of the S face of Mosaic Rock, identify the smaller and left-most of 2 pine trees just left of the exquisite and steep Mosaic Wall, above low slabs. Mama Jugs proceeds up from here.

To descend: 3rd class walkoff to the east.


Cams and nuts to 3", RPs helpful.
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
Mmmm...mama jugs! C3s, 000 and 00 specifically, along with tiny nuts, are nice on the first pitch of this route. Can be done as one long pitch with a 70m rope (probably even a 60m) but look out for rope drag. Sep 23, 2007
Jesse Morehouse
Jesse Morehouse   CO
Know how to use your nuts! Jun 7, 2008
Minesh Bacrania  
An excellent route! Follow the line made by the pine tree propping the wall up and the tiny pine bush directly above it. The pro is somewhat thought-provoking, but didn't require any micronuts. Oct 19, 2008
Stephen Carlos Rydalch
Golden, CO
Stephen Carlos Rydalch   Golden, CO
You can climb this entire route in 1 pitch, ground to top of the cliff, with a 60 meter rope. Rope drag will have to be well managed. Not clipping or extending a sling on the bolt anchors before traversing right proves helpful. May 7, 2009
Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
Crux for me definitely was the mantle on top of the eponymous "mama jug". If belaying up a shaky second, make sure you place a nut in the thin seam a few feet above this; if you don't, a fall for them could mean a mama pendulum! May 9, 2009
Keith B. Ives
Washington, DC
Keith B. Ives   Washington, DC
I had trouble finding this w/out pics... There are new bolted routes that made it a bit tough. Also, there are 2 little pine trees that can confuse things. Anyways, on the ledge from the left: There is a crack, a green stain (with one bolt), & then your pine tree. Start directly above the pine tree (not to the left of it). Oct 31, 2011
Steven Reneau  
If only climbing the 1st pitch, you can belay from the ground with a 70 m rope. Feb 15, 2015
Sky Sjue
Santa Fe
Sky Sjue   Santa Fe
Just did this again for the first time in years. Was able to belay a top-roper from the flat ground below the initial slab no problem with a 60 meter rope. But it is just enough so best to pay attention. Oct 30, 2017
Chris Wenker
Santa Fe
Chris Wenker   Santa Fe
Sky Sjue wrote:
"Was able to belay a top-roper from the flat ground below the initial slab no problem with a 60 meter rope. But it is just enough so best to pay attention."

I'm sorry to be a doubter, but that sounds **extremely** unlikely. I really don't think a 60 would work to TR from the ground, having done this route in that exact same manner several times in the last few years, we always needed a 70. I will check back in after doing it again. Oct 30, 2017
Jonathan Field
Tulsa, OK
Jonathan Field   Tulsa, OK
Started on the ledge by the small pine tree with the hooked branch under the white streak. Found the first several moves to be a bit committing due to the lack of pro. There are good options for stoppers but found them to be sparse (used 3 pieces up to the anchor). Nov 27, 2017