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Routes in Mosaic Rock

Baby Cakes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Better Red Than Dead T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Bienvenidos T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Black Streak T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chicken Heads T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chicken Shit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Clean Green Dream T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cryin' in the Rain T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Black Nightmare T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dirty Diagonal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dung Alley T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fine Little Line S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Five Years After T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Fried Chickens T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Holthouse In A Haulbag T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Holthouse to Hell T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jug or Not S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Mama Jugs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Ocho Diamentes (Tech-No-Star) S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rite of Summer Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seaman Girl T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Serpent Face T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Serpentine Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Summer Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Suprise-Suprise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Techtonics T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Techweenie S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Threshold S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
To Bolt on Lead or Not to Bolt (TBOL) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Unknown (Left of Baby Cakes) T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown (Right of Mama Jugs) T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Walking Dread T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 190 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,029 total, 33/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Sep 23, 2007
Admins: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. Details

Description

This one is great. The line is somewhat confusing to follow (hopefully this helps). Mama Jugs does not have bolts, except for a 2-bolt anchor for toproping the bottom half of it (it helps if you find this before you start- the climb goes straight up to it).

Start up the scrambling slot approach to Dirty Diagonal and the "hardman Mosaic Wall Tech climbs". Walk left on the slab, left of a new 5.9+ sport climb, and belay here near a tiny pine bush (the left of the 2 tiny pine bushes you can see). (You can also get here by climbing directly up low angle slab just right of a tilted ponderosa tree). If you go too far left, you might see a bolt for Seaman Girl. It helps if you find the 2-bolt anchor at the top of the first pitch.

Climb straight up the alligator flakes, with creative pro and great moves to a 2-bolt anchor on a small ledge. Lower off if you have a good reason, or climb the 2nd pitch for full value.

For the 2nd pitch, move right off the belay into a left-facing corner. Climb this corner, step right then fire straight up over the giant chickenhead on the skyline. Build a belay up on top of the dome.

The 2 pitches can be linked with a 60m rope, if you pay attention to rope drag.

Topping out is recommended, at least once, since you get to explore the summit area of Tres Piedras's biggest rock on the traverse to the descent off the east side.

Location

Toward the left side of the S face of Mosaic Rock, identify the smaller and left-most of 2 pine trees just left of the exquisite and steep Mosaic Wall, above low slabs. Mama Jugs proceeds up from here.

To descend: 3rd class walkoff to the east.

Protection

Cams and nuts to 3", RPs helpful.
Chris Wenker
Santa Fe
  5.8-
Chris Wenker   Santa Fe
  5.8-
Sky Sjue wrote:
"Was able to belay a top-roper from the flat ground below the initial slab no problem with a 60 meter rope. But it is just enough so best to pay attention."

I'm sorry to be a doubter, but that sounds **extremely** unlikely. I really don't think a 60 would work to TR from the ground, having done this route in that exact same manner several times in the last few years, we always needed a 70. I will check back in after doing it again. Oct 30, 2017
Sky Sjue
Santa Fe
Sky Sjue   Santa Fe
Just did this again for the first time in years. Was able to belay a top-roper from the flat ground below the initial slab no problem with a 60 meter rope. But it is just enough so best to pay attention. Oct 30, 2017
Steven Reneau  
5.8+
If only climbing the 1st pitch, you can belay from the ground with a 70 m rope. Feb 15, 2015
Keith B. Ives
Washington, DC
 
Keith B. Ives   Washington, DC
 
I had trouble finding this w/out pics... There are new bolted routes that made it a bit tough. Also, there are 2 little pine trees that can confuse things. Anyways, on the ledge from the left: There is a crack, a green stain (with one bolt), & then your pine tree. Start directly above the pine tree (not to the left of it). Oct 31, 2011
Daniel Trugman
La Jolla, CA
  5.8
Daniel Trugman   La Jolla, CA
  5.8
Crux for me definitely was the mantle on top of the eponymous "mama jug". If belaying up a shaky second, make sure you place a nut in the thin seam a few feet above this; if you don't, a fall for them could mean a mama pendulum! May 9, 2009
Stephen Carlos Rydalch
Golden, CO
  5.8
Stephen Carlos Rydalch   Golden, CO
  5.8
You can climb this entire route in 1 pitch, ground to top of the cliff, with a 60 meter rope. Rope drag will have to be well managed. Not clipping or extending a sling on the bolt anchors before traversing right proves helpful. May 7, 2009
Minesh Bacrania  
  5.8
An excellent route! Follow the line made by the pine tree propping the wall up and the tiny pine bush directly above it. The pro is somewhat thought-provoking, but didn't require any micronuts. Oct 19, 2008
Jesse Morehouse
CO
  5.8
Jesse Morehouse   CO
  5.8
Know how to use your nuts! Jun 7, 2008
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.8
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.8
Mmmm...mama jugs! C3s, 000 and 00 specifically, along with tiny nuts, are nice on the first pitch of this route. Can be done as one long pitch with a 70m rope (probably even a 60m) but look out for rope drag. Sep 23, 2007