Avg: 3.4 from 63 votes
|Type:||Trad, 190 ft (58 m), 2 pitches|
|Page Views:||6,131 total · 36/month|
|Shared By:||George Perkins on Sep 23, 2007|
|Admins:||Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
According to Jan Studebaker: "The property linemountainproject.com/v/new_m… runs from approximately the current east corner by the access gate in a straight line over the top of South Rock to the top middle of the Chicken Heads/Mosaic Wall mount, and from there west down the mount slope to the meadow just south of the Alley climbs. Some of the most popular routes are completely on private property. There are survey markers on the top of South rock (the mysterious aluminum stake stuck in the rock) and on top of the Mosaic rock (most of the time buried in water in a pot hole.)"
An online Tres Piedras Route Guidelamountaineers.org/Tres_Pie… from LA Mountaineers has been updated with the latest access information, and should be read by all Tres Piedras climbers. Group climb leaders, and Climbing Directors (future or past) should take particular note.
Access Notes: Tres Piedras climbers should sign the waiverlamountaineers.org/Tres_Pie… found on this page because the popular South Rock is mostly on private land, as is some of the access to the area. The landowner requests NO fires, no trash, no chalk and "please close any gates". Basically, be a good steward of the land.
In order to nurture greater landowner acceptance of climbers, participants of group climbs are requested to organize quick clean up activities before leaving the area; this should include the climbing area as well as the access roads (trip leaders could supply plastic grocery bags). Small parties should practice "leave no trace" principles.
This one is great. The line is somewhat confusing to follow (hopefully this helps). Mama Jugs does not have bolts, except for a 2-bolt anchor for toproping the bottom half of it (it helps if you find this before you start- the climb goes straight up to it).
Start up the scrambling slot approach to Dirty Diagonal and the "hardman Mosaic Wall Tech climbs". Walk left on the slab, left of a new 5.9+ sport climb, and belay here near a tiny (almost dead) pine bush (the left of the 2 pine bushes you can see) at a stance behind a flake. (You can also get here by climbing directly up low angle slab just right of a tilted ponderosa tree). If you go too far left, you might see a bolt for Seaman Girl. It helps if you find the 2-bolt anchor at the top of the first pitch.
Climb straight up the alligator flakes, with creative pro and great moves to a 2-bolt anchor on a small ledge. Lower off if you have a good reason, or climb the 2nd pitch for full value -- it is worth doing too.
For the 2nd pitch, move right off the belay into a left-facing corner. Climb this corner, step right then fire straight up over the giant chickenhead on the skyline. Build a belay up on top of the dome.
The 2 pitches can be linked with a 60m rope, if you pay attention to rope drag.
Topping out is recommended, at least once, since you get to explore the summit area of Tres Piedras's biggest rock on the traverse to the descent off the east side.
To descend: 3rd class walkoff to the east.