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Routes in Mosaic Rock

Baby Cakes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Better Red Than Dead T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Bienvenidos T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Black Streak T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chicken Heads T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chicken Shit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Clean Green Dream T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cryin' in the Rain T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Black Nightmare T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dirty Diagonal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dung Alley T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fine Little Line S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Five Years After T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Fried Chickens T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Holthouse In A Haulbag T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Holthouse to Hell T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jug or Not S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Mama Jugs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Ocho Diamentes (Tech-No-Star) S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rite of Summer Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seaman Girl T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Serpent Face T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Serpentine Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Summer Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Suprise-Suprise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Techtonics T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Techweenie S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Threshold S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
To Bolt on Lead or Not to Bolt (TBOL) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Unknown (Left of Baby Cakes) T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown (Right of Mama Jugs) T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Walking Dread T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Bruce Holthouse
Page Views: 1,851 total, 15/month
Shared By: Randy on Nov 14, 2007
Admins: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. Details

Description

Begin about 20 feet left of Serpentine Crack. Head up and then left to a bolt (stopper protects). Thin face up and left (crux) leads to a horizontal. From here you wander right and up and left and up and right passing more horizontals (thin gear necessary in these) and three more bolts. A little runnout getting to the last (4th) bolt (but not too hard). From the last bolt, head right and then up to reach a two bolt anchor/rap (100++ feet) which is shared with Serpentine Crack.

Location

This face climb wanders up the section of rock about 20 feet left of Serpentine Crack and about 20 feet right of Better Red Than Dead.

Protection

Four bolts, stoppers and thin cams to 1 inch. Slings and draws.

Photos

Casey Engstrom
Burnaby, BC
5.10c PG13
Casey Engstrom   Burnaby, BC
5.10c PG13
Decent pro, the run out is on easier terrain. I skipped the 2nd and 4th bolt (taking the horizontal crack to the right of bolt #2 and #4 respectively). Seemed to be a more natural line that way. Nov 12, 2016
Drew Dickey
  5.10c PG13
Drew Dickey  
  5.10c PG13
I also will have to agree with Bowe and Matthias, the bolt out left is a little contrived. I found it fun and protectable to go straight up through the horizontals. Run out through easy climbing at the top. One of my favorites at TP! Mar 26, 2013
Matthias Lang
Albuquerque
  5.10+
Matthias Lang   Albuquerque
  5.10+
I have to second Bowe's question. Both guidebooks show the second bolt directly above the first one, which is clearly not the case. To reach this bolt you probably would NOT traverse right in the horizontal below, but this seems a bit contrived since it is clearly easier to go right at this point.
I also didn't feel that the protection was worse that other comparable TP routes (But then again I might not have been 'on route', skipping the second bolt and the last, while doing the direct finish that George mentioned). Sep 17, 2012
Bowe Ellis
Taos, NM
  5.10d PG13
Bowe Ellis   Taos, NM
  5.10d PG13
A couple questions about this route...

1. Why is the first bolt in such a tricky stance, and already above the crux moves? I found it a strange placement. Having it lower would still protect falls onto the lower angle slab below.

2. There is a lone bolt out up and left of the first horizontal crack. It's possible to link this up (~5.10a/b) but doesn't follow the natural line up & right. Is this bolt on another route or is it meant to be a new version of Serpent?

BTW, excellent climb. One of the 5 best at TP, IMHO. Apr 19, 2012
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.10b
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.10b
Re: "Needs a facelift (three years ago)."
All the bolts looked good on this climb today, and seemed ok when I led it last year. It's fine now, not sure when it was upgraded or by whom (thanks by the way). Edit: heard rumors Taos climbers upgraded these bolts a while ago. Thanks guys. Jul 19, 2009
Stuart Turner
  5.10+
Stuart Turner  
  5.10+
I felt the gear was pretty good on this route. Tri-cams and brassies should sow it up. Freaken great climb. Needs a face lift (three years ago). Jan 26, 2009
Mike Howard    
 
FA: Bruce Holthouse

I am generally scared off the R's at TP but I will say this route is all there, for a full value route finding/creative pro classic. You can get a so-so piece below the first bolt in the wet horizontal which might stay put if you don't fall on it. Don't cheat yourself with the toprope. May 27, 2008
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.10b
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.10b
Excellent climb- arguably the best 5.10 at TP.

It's too bad the guidebook calls this climb 'R' - it probably keeps people off of this very enjoyable route who otherwise would really have a blast. It is no more runout than the rest of the Mosaic Rock routes (of those 5.10 or easier).

Near the top, the guidebook's line suggests you angle right on big holds past a tiny pine tree (and skip the 4th bolt which is to the left). Doing so is easier, and more independent of the natural finish to Better Red than Dead. However, the traverse after the 4th bolt is fun too.

1 60m rope reaches on rappel, doesn't quite just barely reach if lowering through the gear. May 2, 2008