Avg: 1.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 150 ft (45 m)|
|Page Views:||776 total · 6/month|
|Shared By:||Chris Wenker on Oct 25, 2010|
|Admins:||Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
According to Jan Studebaker: "The property linemountainproject.com/v/new_m… runs from approximately the current east corner by the access gate in a straight line over the top of South Rock to the top middle of the Chicken Heads/Mosaic Wall mount, and from there west down the mount slope to the meadow just south of the Alley climbs. Some of the most popular routes are completely on private property. There are survey markers on the top of South rock (the mysterious aluminum stake stuck in the rock) and on top of the Mosaic rock (most of the time buried in water in a pot hole.)"
An online Tres Piedras Route Guidelamountaineers.org/Tres_Pie… from LA Mountaineers has been updated with the latest access information, and should be read by all Tres Piedras climbers. Group climb leaders, and Climbing Directors (future or past) should take particular note.
Access Notes: Tres Piedras climbers should sign the waiverlamountaineers.org/Tres_Pie… found on this page because the popular South Rock is mostly on private land, as is some of the access to the area. The landowner requests NO fires, no trash, no chalk and "please close any gates". Basically, be a good steward of the land.
In order to nurture greater landowner acceptance of climbers, participants of group climbs are requested to organize quick clean up activities before leaving the area; this should include the climbing area as well as the access roads (trip leaders could supply plastic grocery bags). Small parties should practice "leave no trace" principles.
1.) The old Taos II & III guidebooks indicate that the route continues up to the left, to a bunch of chickenheads and then up. (We didn't go this way, so it's not clear how far left you have to go. Maybe you have to cross through Holthouse in a Haulbag and Holthouse to Hell? I have no idea if there is 5.9 territory over there.)
2.) Jackson's 2006 guidebook indicates that you are to finish Cryin' in the Rain by merging into the top part of Holthouse in a Haulbag. We went straight up this way, up a lieback flake and past one bolt. But I thought this was way harder than 5.9 (maybe 10.b-ish?), and sure enough, after the fact, I read in the 1991 Taos III guidebook that this finish is described as a 5.10 variation. So, be aware.
At the top of the route, you reach a ledge covered in oak brush. From there, climb or scramble wherever you see fit to the summit; walk off the east side.