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Routes in Mosaic Rock

Baby Cakes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Better Red Than Dead T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Bienvenidos T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Black Streak T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chicken Heads T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chicken Shit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Clean Green Dream T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cryin' in the Rain T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Black Nightmare T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dirty Diagonal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dung Alley T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fine Little Line S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Five Years After T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Fried Chickens T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Holthouse In A Haulbag T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Holthouse to Hell T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jug or Not S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Mama Jugs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Ocho Diamentes (Tech-No-Star) S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rite of Summer Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seaman Girl T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Serpent Face T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Serpentine Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Summer Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Suprise-Suprise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Techtonics T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Techweenie S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Threshold S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
To Bolt on Lead or Not to Bolt (TBOL) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Unknown (Left of Baby Cakes) T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown (Right of Mama Jugs) T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Walking Dread T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: pre-1981
Page Views: 440 total, 5/month
Shared By: Chris Wenker on Oct 25, 2010
Admins: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. Details

Description

Ascend the left-leaning crack, past two small roofs, to gain a low-angle left-trending ramp. At this point, the route can take two variations, apparently.
1.) The old Taos II & III guidebooks indicate that the route continues up to the left, to a bunch of chickenheads and then up. (We didn't go this way, so it's not clear how far left you have to go. Maybe you have to cross through Holthouse in a Haulbag and Holthouse to Hell? I have no idea if there is 5.9 territory over there.)
2.) Jackson's 2006 guidebook indicates that you are to finish Cryin' in the Rain by merging into the top part of Holthouse in a Haulbag. We went straight up this way, up a lieback flake and past one bolt. But I thought this was way harder than 5.9 (maybe 10.b-ish?), and sure enough, after the fact, I read in the 1991 Taos III guidebook that this finish is described as a 5.10 variation. So, be aware.

Location

Located on the south face of Mosaic Rock, just left of the huge detached flake that marks the start of Clean Green Dream. Start up a left-leaning crack behind the tree.
At the top of the route, you reach a ledge covered in oak brush. From there, climb or scramble wherever you see fit to the summit; walk off the east side.

Protection

Standard TP rack of single cams & nuts. A #3 C4 can be useful on the low-angle ramp.

Photos

George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.9
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.9
For a TP 5.9, this climb passes into some unlikely terrain and has some adventure to it.

Regarding the various finishes, after you gain the obvious left-trending ramp ledge 60' up, it looks like there are 3 options (R->L, in the order you reach them as you continue up and left).
a) the flake to bolt, shared with the top of Holthouse in a Haulbag, this is what's described in the current guidebook, option (2) above, best for rope drag, might feel harder than 5.9
b) slab to a newer bolt (this is the last bolt on Nowhere/In Step), this looks hardest (but I haven't climbed it)
c) keep going left as on option (1) above, to a short finger crack and chicken headed face that climbs directly to the ledge with trees- this is the top of Holthouse to Hell and is 5.9 with some runout (probably easiest option) Jul 13, 2015