Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: pre-1981
Page Views: 666 total · 6/month
Shared By: Chris Wenker on Oct 25, 2010
Admins: Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Be respectful when crossing private land. Details

Description

Ascend the left-leaning crack, past two small roofs, to gain a low-angle left-trending ramp. At this point, the route can take two variations, apparently.
1.) The old Taos II & III guidebooks indicate that the route continues up to the left, to a bunch of chickenheads and then up. (We didn't go this way, so it's not clear how far left you have to go. Maybe you have to cross through Holthouse in a Haulbag and Holthouse to Hell? I have no idea if there is 5.9 territory over there.)
2.) Jackson's 2006 guidebook indicates that you are to finish Cryin' in the Rain by merging into the top part of Holthouse in a Haulbag. We went straight up this way, up a lieback flake and past one bolt. But I thought this was way harder than 5.9 (maybe 10.b-ish?), and sure enough, after the fact, I read in the 1991 Taos III guidebook that this finish is described as a 5.10 variation. So, be aware.

Location

Located on the south face of Mosaic Rock, just left of the huge detached flake that marks the start of Clean Green Dream. Start up a left-leaning crack behind the tree.
At the top of the route, you reach a ledge covered in oak brush. From there, climb or scramble wherever you see fit to the summit; walk off the east side.

Protection

Standard TP rack of single cams & nuts. A #3 C4 can be useful on the low-angle ramp.

Photos