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Routes in Mosaic Rock

Baby Cakes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Better Red Than Dead T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Bienvenidos T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Black Streak T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chicken Heads T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chicken Shit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Clean Green Dream T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cryin' in the Rain T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Black Nightmare T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dirty Diagonal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dung Alley T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fine Little Line S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Five Years After T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Fried Chickens T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Holthouse In A Haulbag T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Holthouse to Hell T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jug or Not S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Mama Jugs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Ocho Diamentes (Tech-No-Star) S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rite of Summer Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seaman Girl T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Serpent Face T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Serpentine Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Summer Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Suprise-Suprise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Techtonics T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Techweenie S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Threshold S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
To Bolt on Lead or Not to Bolt (TBOL) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Unknown (Left of Baby Cakes) T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown (Right of Mama Jugs) T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Walking Dread T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 220 ft, 2 pitches
FA: ??
Page Views: 1,499 total, 13/month
Shared By: Chris Wenker on Sep 2, 2008
Admins: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. Details

Description

Head up the right-leaning crack, using face and crack holds, to a series of overlaps and plates which Jackson (2006) called a cruxy roof. There's not really a roof here to surmount, nor is there a crux, but there are some very annoyed cliff-dwelling critters in there. Continue straight up through a field of chickenheads and plates. Finish slightly right through a fairly runout frictiony bulge -- some people have finished Chicken Heads this way also.
A 60 m rope will take you to the big grassy belay ledge, with only about 10 feet of rope to spare. From there, it's about another 30 feet of easy Class 4/5 to the actual top, up which I belayed the second climber and then he gave me a body belay from above to finish out. You might actually get to the top with a 70 m rope, dunno. Also, I didn't study it, but you may also be able to traverse right to the anchor at the top of the first pitch of Serpentine Crack if you need to break this climb up.
Described by Jackson (2006:65-66; called it a 5.8) and Foley (2005:78-79; called it a 5.8+R). Also described in the 1991 "Taos Rock III" guide (as a 5.8). In the 1984 "Tao's Rock II" guide, this is probably the same as the Unnamed route #6 (5.8 "just to the east of CHICKEN-SHIT").

Location

On the south face of Mosaic Rock, about 35 feet to the right of the green-streaked bottom of Chicken Shit. To descend, walk off the top to the east.

Protection

Standard TP rack, with plenty of smallish nuts and cams. Lots of slings to reduce drag and for slinging 'heads. Save some 3-4" cams for the belay anchor.

Photos

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