Type: Trad, 220 ft, 2 pitches
FA: ??
Page Views: 1,756 total · 13/month
Shared By: Chris Wenker on Sep 2, 2008
Admins: Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. Details

Description

Head up the right-leaning crack, using face and crack holds, to a series of overlaps and plates which Jackson (2006) called a cruxy roof. There's not really a roof here to surmount, nor is there a crux, but there are some very annoyed cliff-dwelling critters in there. Continue straight up through a field of chickenheads and plates. Finish slightly right through a fairly runout frictiony bulge -- some people have finished Chicken Heads this way also.
A 60 m rope will take you to the big grassy belay ledge, with only about 10 feet of rope to spare. From there, it's about another 30 feet of easy Class 4/5 to the actual top, up which I belayed the second climber and then he gave me a body belay from above to finish out. You might actually get to the top with a 70 m rope, dunno. Also, I didn't study it, but you may also be able to traverse right to the anchor at the top of the first pitch of Serpentine Crack if you need to break this climb up.
Described by Jackson (2006:65-66; called it a 5.8) and Foley (2005:78-79; called it a 5.8+R). Also described in the 1991 "Taos Rock III" guide (as a 5.8). In the 1984 "Tao's Rock II" guide, this is probably the same as the Unnamed route #6 (5.8 "just to the east of CHICKEN-SHIT").

Location

On the south face of Mosaic Rock, about 35 feet to the right of the green-streaked bottom of Chicken Shit. To descend, walk off the top to the east.

Protection

Standard TP rack, with plenty of smallish nuts and cams. Lots of slings to reduce drag and for slinging 'heads. Save some 3-4" cams for the belay anchor.

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