Avg: 2.8 from 11 votes
|Type:||Trad, 220 ft (67 m), 2 pitches|
|Page Views:||2,326 total · 15/month|
|Shared By:||Chris Wenker on Sep 2, 2008|
|Admins:||Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
According to Jan Studebaker: "The property linemountainproject.com/v/new_m… runs from approximately the current east corner by the access gate in a straight line over the top of South Rock to the top middle of the Chicken Heads/Mosaic Wall mount, and from there west down the mount slope to the meadow just south of the Alley climbs. Some of the most popular routes are completely on private property. There are survey markers on the top of South rock (the mysterious aluminum stake stuck in the rock) and on top of the Mosaic rock (most of the time buried in water in a pot hole.)"
An online Tres Piedras Route Guidelamountaineers.org/Tres_Pie… from LA Mountaineers has been updated with the latest access information, and should be read by all Tres Piedras climbers. Group climb leaders, and Climbing Directors (future or past) should take particular note.
Access Notes: Tres Piedras climbers should sign the waiverlamountaineers.org/Tres_Pie… found on this page because the popular South Rock is mostly on private land, as is some of the access to the area. The landowner requests NO fires, no trash, no chalk and "please close any gates". Basically, be a good steward of the land.
In order to nurture greater landowner acceptance of climbers, participants of group climbs are requested to organize quick clean up activities before leaving the area; this should include the climbing area as well as the access roads (trip leaders could supply plastic grocery bags). Small parties should practice "leave no trace" principles.
A 60 m rope will take you to the big grassy belay ledge, with only about 10 feet of rope to spare. From there, it's about another 30 feet of easy Class 4/5 to the actual top, up which I belayed the second climber and then he gave me a body belay from above to finish out. You might actually get to the top with a 70 m rope, dunno. Also, I didn't study it, but you may also be able to traverse right to the anchor at the top of the first pitch of Serpentine Crack if you need to break this climb up.
Described by Jackson (2006:65-66; called it a 5.8) and Foley (2005:78-79; called it a 5.8+R). Also described in the 1991 "Taos Rock III" guide (as a 5.8). In the 1984 "Tao's Rock II" guide, this is probably the same as the Unnamed route #6 (5.8 "just to the east of CHICKEN-SHIT").