Type: Trad, Sport, 75 ft (23 m)
FA: Todd Bibler
Page Views: 1,903 total · 10/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Aug 23, 2008
Admins: Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Seasonal Raptor Nesting. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Really enjoyable face climbing on tiny edges on steep rock in the same vein as Techweenie. Small edges on cool plates serve up unique movement from straight down pulling, side pulling, and underclinging. Cruise up generous chickenheads and edges to the high first bolt. After that, things get smaller and more interesting past three more bolts. Take some small gear to fish into some tricky placements and keep going to easier ground above the fourth bolt to the anchors.

The D. Jackson book gives this the "R" protection rating where J. Foley does not. Probably is "R" if you don't take tiny gear or are unable to place that gear in some tricky placements.

Location Suggest change

Techtonics is the middle of three mostly-bolted routes on the Painted Wall/Mosaic Rock Left area. It's the four-bolt route just left of Techweenie.

Protection Suggest change

Five bolts plus tiny supplemental gear.
I placed a poor #0 C3 right next to a .3 camalot that was better between bolts 3 and 4. Above the fourth bolt I placed a #000 C3 and a .5 camalot. All this and I still sweated bullets. Two cold shuts for the anchors. Please rappel from these rather than lower through them.

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