Type: Trad, Sport, 75 ft
FA: Todd Bibler
Page Views: 1,010 total · 8/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Aug 23, 2008
Admins: Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. Details

Description

Really enjoyable face climbing on tiny edges on steep rock in the same vein as Techweenie. Small edges on cool plates serve up unique movement from straight down pulling, side pulling, and underclinging. Cruise up generous chickenheads and edges to the high first bolt. After that, things get smaller and more interesting past three more bolts. Take some small gear to fish into some tricky placements and keep going to easier ground above the fourth bolt to the anchors.

The D. Jackson book gives this the "R" protection rating where J. Foley does not. Probably is "R" if you don't take tiny gear or are unable to place that gear in some tricky placements.

Location

Techtonics is the middle of three mostly-bolted routes on the Painted Wall/Mosaic Rock Left area. It's the four-bolt route just left of Techweenie.

Protection

Five bolts plus tiny supplemental gear.
I placed a poor #0 C3 right next to a .3 camalot that was better between bolts 3 and 4. Above the fourth bolt I placed a #000 C3 and a .5 camalot. All this and I still sweated bullets. Two cold shuts for the anchors. Please rappel from these rather than lower through them.

Photos

- No Photos -
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.11c
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.11c
Protects reasonably but some air time is possible if you fall in the wrong places. Bolts protect the majority of the climb. I clipped Techweenie's 1st bolt, and placed a small-med stopper (#7 HB offset?) after bolt 3 but otherwise just clipped bolts. I did run it out at the top but it's after the hard climbing is done (a mid-size cam would be ok there too). Very good climb, like Techweenie. Jul 13, 2014
I bolted Techtonic on rappel after top roping. On lead I traversed in from the left to reach the first bolt, there was an old 1/4" bolt to the left. Now it would probably be a good idea to add a new lower first bolt. Sep 18, 2016
As per Todd's request, I added a lower bolt. Also, I replaced several of the older bolts with new Fixe ss bolts and hangers. Oct 13, 2016