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Routes in Mosaic Rock

Baby Cakes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Better Red Than Dead T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Bienvenidos T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Black Streak T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chicken Heads T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chicken Shit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Clean Green Dream T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cryin' in the Rain T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Black Nightmare T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dirty Diagonal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Doctor Yousuf's Gang S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dung Alley T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fine Little Line S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Five Years After T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Fried Chickens T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Holthouse In A Haulbag T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Holthouse to Hell T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jug or Not S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Mama Jugs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Ocho Diamentes (Tech-No-Star) S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rite of Summer Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seaman Girl T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Serpent Face T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Serpentine Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Summer Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Suprise-Suprise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Techtonics T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Techweenie S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Threshold S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
To Bolt on Lead or Not to Bolt (TBOL) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Unknown (Left of Baby Cakes) T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown (Right of Mama Jugs) T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Walking Dread T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Holthouse?
Page Views: 257 total · 2/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Sep 23, 2007
Admins: Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. Details

Description

Face climb a few moves off the ground to a left-leaning thin hands crack. At the top of this crack, clip a bolt, pull the crux bulge, clip the 2nd bolt. Follow a water groove (5.7R), and don't pass up placing pro in 2 diagonal cracks that cross this groove on your way to the 2-bolt anchor. There are really cool fins and big holds in this upper section, but the runout is 25' so you've still got to keep your focus.

Note that all climbing harder than 5.8 is well protected on this climb, but runout on 5.7. Welcome to TP 5.10s.

Watch out for people who might be about to use the anchors to rappel.

Location

Toward the right end of Mosaic Rock, at the South/SE corner, behind a pine tree: you can see the left leaning hand crack that begins about 8' up. Soon after this route, the cliff faces more south east than south. It's the next climb left of the Baby Cakes flake.

Rap the route with a 60m rope from the 2-bolt anchor with chains. You could walk off if you wanted to, or if you had a shorter rope.

Protection

Standard TP rack: 1 set cams to 2", 1 set nuts. 2 bolts protect the crux 5.10 moves. Ends at a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

tim naylor  
 
can go right of bolt over bulge on crimps @ .11b but less awkward? Jan 9, 2012
David Baltz
Albuquerque, New Mexico
5.10c
David Baltz   Albuquerque, New Mexico
5.10c
I went to the right of the bolt over the bulge as well. Seemed easier than straight up. Jul 2, 2018

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