Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Holthouse?
Page Views: 282 total · 2/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Sep 23, 2007
Admins: Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. Details

Description

Face climb a few moves off the ground to a left-leaning thin hands crack. At the top of this crack, clip a bolt, pull the crux bulge, clip the 2nd bolt. Follow a water groove (5.7R), and don't pass up placing pro in 2 diagonal cracks that cross this groove on your way to the 2-bolt anchor. There are really cool fins and big holds in this upper section, but the runout is 25' so you've still got to keep your focus.

Note that all climbing harder than 5.8 is well protected on this climb, but runout on 5.7. Welcome to TP 5.10s.

Watch out for people who might be about to use the anchors to rappel.

Location

Toward the right end of Mosaic Rock, at the South/SE corner, behind a pine tree: you can see the left leaning hand crack that begins about 8' up. Soon after this route, the cliff faces more south east than south. It's the next climb left of the Baby Cakes flake.

Rap the route with a 60m rope from the 2-bolt anchor with chains. You could walk off if you wanted to, or if you had a shorter rope.

Protection

Standard TP rack: 1 set cams to 2", 1 set nuts. 2 bolts protect the crux 5.10 moves. Ends at a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

tim naylor  
 
can go right of bolt over bulge on crimps @ .11b but less awkward? Jan 9, 2012
David Baltz
Albuquerque, New Mexico
  5.10c
David Baltz   Albuquerque, New Mexico
  5.10c
I went to the right of the bolt over the bulge as well. Seemed easier than straight up. Jul 2, 2018