Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 439 total · 4/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Oct 4, 2009
Admins: Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. Details

Description

This climb goes up the face past the lone bolt left of Mama Jugs, then follows the right-leaning thin crack above. Gear is somewhat tricky to place in the thin crack, though I found ok small stopper placements. The crux is well-protected by the bolt. The climb joins Mama Jugs, most naturally at the 2-bolt anchor on that route (though the guidebook shows it continuing higher up to the next right-trending ramp, then moving right to Mama Jugs). You can rappel from that anchor with 1 rope, or continue up as for Mama Jugs up and right past the giant chickenhead.

Location

The face with the bolt left of Mama Jugs, joining a right-angling crack.

Protection

Nuts and cams to 1.5", including RPs and TCUs. The climb's only bolt protects the crux moves.
The 2-bolt anchor half-way up Mama Jugs makes for a more convenient rappel descent after the harder climbing, though continuing up Mama Jugs and walking off the east end is also an option.

Photos

0 Comments