Type: Trad, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 750 total · 6/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Oct 4, 2009
Admins: Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Be respectful when crossing private land. Details
Access Issue: COVID-19 New Mexico State Requirements Details

Description

This climb goes up the face past the lone bolt left of Mama Jugs, then follows the right-leaning thin crack above. Gear is somewhat tricky to place in the thin crack, though I found ok small stopper placements. The crux is well-protected by the bolt. The climb joins Mama Jugs, most naturally at the 2-bolt anchor on that route (though the guidebook shows it continuing higher up to the next right-trending ramp, then moving right to Mama Jugs). You can rappel from that anchor with 1 rope, or continue up as for Mama Jugs up and right past the giant chickenhead.

Location

The face with the bolt left of Mama Jugs, joining a right-angling crack.

Protection

Nuts and cams to 1.5", including RPs and TCUs. The climb's only bolt protects the crux moves.
The 2-bolt anchor half-way up Mama Jugs makes for a more convenient rappel descent after the harder climbing, though continuing up Mama Jugs and walking off the east end is also an option.

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