Type: Trad, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,245 total · 7/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Oct 4, 2009
Admins: Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

You & This Route


8 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Seasonal Raptor Nesting. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This climb goes up the face past the lone bolt left of Mama Jugs, then follows the right-leaning thin crack above. Gear is somewhat tricky to place in the thin crack, though I found ok small stopper placements. The crux is well-protected by the bolt. The climb joins Mama Jugs, most naturally at the 2-bolt anchor on that route (though the guidebook shows it continuing higher up to the next right-trending ramp, then moving right to Mama Jugs). You can rappel from that anchor with 1 rope, or continue up as for Mama Jugs up and right past the giant chickenhead.

Location Suggest change

The face with the bolt left of Mama Jugs, joining a right-angling crack.

Protection Suggest change

Nuts and cams to 1.5", including RPs and TCUs. The climb's only bolt protects the crux moves.
The 2-bolt anchor half-way up Mama Jugs makes for a more convenient rappel descent after the harder climbing, though continuing up Mama Jugs and walking off the east end is also an option.

Photos

- No Photos -
loading