Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,564 total · 10/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Sep 23, 2007
Admins: Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Be respectful when crossing private land. Details
Access Issue: COVID-19 New Mexico State Requirements Details

Description

The first half of 5 Years After is a popular sport and toprope climb at TP.

Climb Chicken Shit to a ledge, or scramble up 3rd class to its left. Continue up on solid flakes and positive holds to a 2-bolt anchor. It's 5.8 with closely spaced bolts up to this point; the 2nd bolt is not visible until it's at your nose. Most people lower from this anchor, but they are missing out. The adventurous can continue up a seldom-climbed and runout face (5.9 somewhat runout, at first, then easier above) between big flakes to the top of the rock. If you plan on continuing to the top, don't belay at the anchor, combine it into a single 190' pitch.

Location

The face left of Chicken Heads and right of Dirty Diagonal. The 2 bolt anchor is obvious. Lower from that anchor with 1 rope, or walk off to the right if you top out.

Protection

2 bolts to the 2 bolt anchor midway up. If you stop here, only 4 quickdraws are needed (5 quickdraws, if starting with Chicken Shit).

If you plan on topping out, you'll need some gear to build an anchor up high at the top, and a light rack of cams and nuts to 3", including micros, to get there.

Photos