Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: 1985 Paul Horak, David Baltz, Mark Leonard
Page Views: 155 total · 10/month
Shared By: David Baltz on Sep 24, 2017
Admins: Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. Details

Description

This one-pitch route climbs underclings, flakes, and a short crack, protected by two fixed pins and small wireds, to exit left at the top of the crack onto a smooth steep face. Two bolts protect crux slabby face moves and a difficult high-step leading to a horizontal seam rising to the right and finally joining Cryin' In The Rain.
Finish up Cryin' In The Rain.

Location

About 30 feet right of Holthouse To Hell below a prominent right-facing flake 30 feet up.

Protection

Small stoppers & RPs, and 1.5 and 2" cams.

Photos

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George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.11c PG13
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.11c PG13
Wow I thought this one was great and is among the most interesting and engaging climbs at TP. Numerous sections seemed so unlikely. There are some opportunities for weird falls (reaching the first pin, and the traverse right along the seam), but I never felt I'd actually hurt myself if I pitched, and the crux is well-protected by bolts.
Bolts are small but seem ok, especially compared to the really old ones that used to be on a lot of climbs here. Nov 23, 2018